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That capacitor is unfortunately meant to be essential, so it may not be possible to get that board working without a replacement if logic reference on that line is the issue. I don't remember if you need to supply 3.3v to MODE when using a GCVideo, but I did with my old Pluto board and it...

I'm guessing you meant 0.16mm layer height, but I can't get the comical mental picture of a 1.6mm layer height Ashida out of my head

Yeah that should be fine. I believe as long as it's over 500ohms-ish the 3.3v logic reference should be fine.

Man, if this works..............

Now that would be a welcome innovation!

When and if such an update is released, yes, generally updating the RVLoader files on the USB is sufficient. A major update might require a safe-mode in-place reinstall, but that has a special button combo to do easily. You can volunteer to be a tester regardless. The Wii's "region" system is...

I'm not sure why the resistances would increase during probing, but your nominal values are within acceptable parameters. You do have a couple of damaged components on the edge of the trim. I would remove those components before supplying voltage in case they are causing the resistance instability.

Losing the second NAND cap isn't ideal and can cause boot/loading faults, but it is relatively simple to resolve if it becomes a problem

Yeah that would be a better option. The RVL-AMP is basically just a simplified U-AMP that only works on the Wii. It fits in the same PCB slot as the U-AMP in the Ashida and has the same overall functions, you just have to run one or two extra wires to enable the volume wheel. There are diagrams...

Not much reason to use U10 over emulation, but when using emulation you must keep the wire as short as possible. The signal is fairly weak and can lose enough voltage over a couple of extra inches to cause boot failure. Keep the wire thin and reasonably short and U10 emulation is perfectly fine.

The wire from the wifi antennas is shielded coaxial wire. You can use it as instead of a ground twist if you prefer, but it can be tricky to strip and there's a limited amount in each Wii unless you buy a small reel of it. Note: Don't use that shielded wire for USB. USB is a differential data...

JSTs to keep the halves separate are an excellent idea. This would be much nicer to service than the usual unbroken wire looms

Soon as that bitstream update is out I think I shall be spending some shekels

Bluetooth is off by default due to the patch that lets Gamecube controller inputs be translated into (most) Wiimote inputs. The default config assumes you're using emulated inputs instead a physical Wiimote, so yeah you will have to enable bluetooth for each Wii game that you want to use a...

You could message Gman and ask if he'd privately disclose the part number for that IC so you can replace it without having to buy a new board. Might not be possible if the chip needs to be programmed, but it's worth an ask.

Not much in the way of print quality difference, but the P1S is quieter. Also the CC toolhead can be modded with a single cheap bracket to use Bambu A1 quickswap nozzles without any firmware changes, but there is also a custom firmware suite in active development as well as a future klipper...

You will need to grab left and right audio from the input legs of the pre-amp rather than the outputs that go to the AV port, but yes that looks correct. As for the 3.3v mod, there's a diagram for it on the screen listing page. You just remove a certain inductor and supply 3.3v directly to the...

RVLoader's installer is a one and done system. It's not required to install Priiloader before running it, and actually might cause file conflicts if a different version already exists. Wiiware is a very mixed bag compared to Virtual Console. Compatibility is not good due to some titles trying...

The Centauri Carbon is the best price to performance printer available atm. Modern gen speeds for an incredible price. Whether the CC1 will ever have multimaterial is uncertain, leaning towards no, but for a single material machine it is excellent. The Bambu A1 comes in close second with good...

Sorry, I totally blanked on the conversation history. I thought you were asking something entirely different. Yeah the first switch you linked would work fine as a mode switch. Mounting it securely might be tricky because of how flat it is, but it is suitable.