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Afaik that can only be the MX chip. Did you check that all the marked 3.3v legs on the chip are properly supplied and that all the GND legs are connected to GND? Sometimes one magically gets orphaned and it can cause odd behaviour

Any pots that match the following word salad will do: B103 10k linear dial/wheel potentiometers. You can use B105 ones if you cut off the extra two legs, but the main thing is to be sure to buy pots marked as linear or linear taper, and not audio, audio taper, or logarithmic taper. Those pots...

The PSU Plus is designed to support the higher power draw of 6 layer Wiis, but it is possible that you both got bad silicon that doesn't like the normal 6 layer voltage drop. The simplest solution I believe would be to adjust the RSET resistor value to raise the nominal output voltage of the 1v...

In the OP

That is very much the wrong thing to do. If there's no GND path for the voltage to return through, they won't read corrrectly and could damage the trim. You can check regulator voltage without a load, so disconnect the regs from the Wii and check them that way. About this close That set of...

The snags in the trim line are not ideal, but your resistance readings are within acceptable bounds. The board should be safe to use as is, but you can also sand it down smaller if you want to.

That happens sometimes with a 60hz PAL composite signal. For some reason it's just a dogshit signal that bugs out all the time. It will go away if you use VGA instead

This actually got me. Well done

Minor signal/voltage to GND shorts are the most common and quite rarely damage anything. It's signal to voltage and voltage to voltage shorts that break things. Afaik the risk of a signal to voltage short in that area is pretty minimal, so you should be good to give it a test boot

Nothing to forgive my friend, you can update your own worklogs as often as you like. It's chainposting in general threads or other people's worklogs that we don't approve of.

Your enthusiasm is great, but please stop replying to every thread that you read with your thoughts; it clutters the feed. Forums are an information repository and question hub, not a chatroom. We have a discord server for that. If you check the top right of the page under the search bar...

If you switch the Wii back to stock, you will be forced to relocate the wifi module to boot the board

The screen wouldn't be the issue unless you were using and overwrote the VGA patch, which I don't remember being available in the PortablizeMii times. I don't know what the success rate for updating a PM Wii to a RVLoader Wii is, but my semi-professional opinion is that the Wii is stuffed from...

I'm afraid if you ripped up the entire accessible part of the via, then there isn't anything you can do. The other side of that via is under the CPU/GPU dies, which is not accessible. Maybe if you used very thin wire like 38AWG magnet wire, it might be possible to salvage, but it's likely that...

Can you provide some clear photos of your wiring so we can eyeball for any physical issues?

Long wires can cause voltage drop, especially on the U10 emulation line. If you have boot troubles, shortening the wires would be a good first step.

Looks like you've sanded partway through the 3.3v and GND supply vias there. If you have boot troubles, you can run a 3.3v and a GND wire to the cap directly to restore function to that side of the chip

You can if you need to. The volt rating on a capacitor is its maximum input tolerance. I have used 25v caps in portables with no issue

First thing I noticed in your photo was how thin the blue 3.3v wires are. I don't remember off the top of my head how much current the N64 needs, but I'm 96% sure you need no thinner than a 24AWG wire. 22AWG the whole way would be ideal.