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Very nice!

Is this with composite or component video out? If it's component, then your Y line has been repaired but the Pb and Pr lines have not. Can you post a photo of the current state of your repair?

They're there for safety and signal clarity. The capacitors clean the signal some before it gets sent through the AV cable, and if a static shock finds its way to those pins, the inline diode will prevent the shock from damaging the AVE. They're not essential for operation, but they're...

If you clear the blobs away and remove the filtering components, you can repair the traces by soldering a wire from each of the matching round electrolytic capacitors to the pad closest to the AV port. As shown in this high quality diagram I just made

Are you going to be trimming this Wii?

The gh-061 is a 7900X motherboard and can be trimmed in accordance with the PS2 Trimming Guide

Do you have a set of calipers to measure the diamater of the screw threads and length of the shaft?

Look up how to wire sets of batteries in series to combine their voltages together. A 2S arrangement will give you the 7.4v nominal voltage that you require

U10 wire still looks suspect to me with that long exposed tin, but aside from that, a much better arrangement! You were right to use magnet wire, we just recommend using a thinner gauge like 34 or 38 AWG. The thinner and softer wire is easier to tin, twist, route, and doesn't spring or rip...

I love it

Quite often when something stops working after closing the case it's because strain/pressure has been applied to a moving wire or dodgy joint, occasionally even causing a short. Your U10 wire concerns me, it appears there's enough exposed wire to short against a neighbouring via when pressure...

Don't pray, check and do it right. If you try to fudge this, you may as well take the money you were going to spend and burn it in the fireplace. As for your question about printer types: Fused Deposition Modelling (FDM) refers to printers that fabricate objects by melting a line of plastic...

FDM is if you're printing the case at home with a consumer filament 3D printer. The JLC files are tweaked for if you're paying for JLCPCB's SLS nylon or MSLA resin printing

Well, using a 6 layer Wii for a handheld is already a mistake. The things use 50% more power and produce a ton more heat. You'll need a much heftier cooling solution than a 4 layer Wii

I'm not aware of anyone having done this before or any diagrams related to it, so you may have to trace your own pinout using the Wii compendium and a multimeter. Aurelio already had a working method to patch out the disc drive calls before I joined up, and before that trims were kinda Wild...

So if they already had a front case panel that fit the 1240x1080 screen properly and could facilitate user configurable oversan, why did they risk it all by lying? Did they really think that retro gaming enthusiasts, who autistically pixel hunt to identify MAME footage to bust world record...

Depending on how you want to build this thing, you may not need to trim the disc drive PCB. It's already pretty small once you remove the housing and desolder the motors

I second this ^^^^ Sometimes the H and V sync labels get swapped on driver boards. It won't damage anything, so it's worth a check

It is posible, yes. It would be as simple as opening the pack and carefully extracting the cells to solder to your battery management solution. The issue is quality assurance and general safety, generally there's no way to know the quality and reliability of the cells before you use them...