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Are you powering it from the battery terminals or the charge port? IIRC it won't boot from just the charge port without a battery present. Could we also get a closer/clearer shot of the NAND lines? It looks really close and you may have cut one

It depends on how you want the button to work, the original NES power button is latching (stays in, doesn't immediately come back out) so if you want to keep that functionality, you would just need to wire the button to the onboard regulator enable pin. If you pull the latching tab off the...

Search eBay for "tact switch"

Yep, those are the clicky kind

How did you get USB loader gx working? That requires the disc drive daughterboard... Anyway, you should be able to just install bootmii ios from a wad, though I don't have one. Don't try to wire wifi, it will be a nightmare at best

Yes you need the resistors as I drew them, those voltage numbers you calculated are wrong, vcc in your case would be the voltage the system is running on, it's not always a fixed 5v.

VCC to 3, GND to 12, X to 5 and 6, Y to 9 and 10. For going down and left, you want to check the stick is below a certain voltage instead of above, so you would need to swap the inverting and noninverting input. Then you would need to make 2 voltage dividers to get the voltages you would want...

You can use 2 LM358Ps, or you could get a 4 output one like the LM339.

A comparator would be what you need, it compares two analog voltages and outputs either 1 or 0. This is a good example of how it works:

The "analog" inputs for the buttons works on the fact that the resistance gets lower as you push harder, but it's kinda finicky at best... Depending on if you want a clicky or squishy feel, you can get both on ebay. I know for the squishy feel the orange tacts are best, but I'm not sure if...

Nope, we can't use any of the info in the leak for any hardware or software advances. Hardware-wise, we've already trimmed as small as possible, so there isn't any possible progress to make there. Software-wise, there are a couple things. First, we already know all the information we need for...

The main issue with the default menu isn't how it looks, but more that it's basically unusable without a wii remote. This is completely impractical/unusable for portables, since the large majority of them will be using GC controls for basically all of their interaction.

Just making sure you are checking with the wifi module in? It won't boot without it. Also, try holding reset when turning the console on. If the priiloader menu comes up not all hope is lost for this board. Otherwise it could be a bricked board EDIT: Also, plug in the disc drive light to...

You could use a Tamiya connector, those have clips on them, and you should be able to get one that has a high enough current rating.

You shouldn't have to go at it blind... Can you get composite video out of it? I'm not seeing a jumper for the sense pin, so you may be trying to get the wrong video

https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/revision-identification-guide.863/ Please don't double post

The only thing that stands out to me is the SD card for installing PM, you should check around the house or something to see if you happen to have a card you can use. That particular one may have issues since it's a SDHC. At least one of them is most likely a 4 layer, but Ginger is right that...

If you are planning on using some kind of battery holder then you can get one of the button or flat top ones, but if you plan to solder wires directly to the batteries you should get the ones with solder tabs

I'd say check all the voltages from the regulators, one of them may be bad

Double check the date is correct, you may need to check a day or two forward or backwards on the message board as well. If it still doesn't show up (which can happen for some reason) try downloading a different letter from here, replacing the "private" folder on the SD card with the one...