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If that doesn't work I'd suggest a different flash drive, SanDisk drives are notorious for not playing nice with PM

Unless you mean GameCube ports and a gba link cable, in which case it doesn't really have the room to fit the ports, but you could always add a breakout box with the ports

Another display that can show VGA would tell you if it's the screen or the wii

They probably used SPI and I2S for video and sound, the pinout for the header is here

Pictures? Did you cut the trace mentioned in the guide?

Don't worry I can fix that ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

Yes it's OK to bypass the power switch altogether, it's just there so you can turn the console off in a normal config. I personally like rocker switches, especially if they have a satisfying click when turning on/off

Trimming Service 2: Electric Boogaloo With the intent of continuing where ShockSlayer left off, lets get some more trims (and portables) into people's hands! NOTE TO ALL POTENTIAL BUYERS: I am temporarily closing this service while I get caught up with existing requests. To anyone who has...

There are minor changes between the revisions, but for the most part they are identical to this one

Try overwriting the first 16mb of the drive with zeros in Linux, then redo the guiformatter

Not sure where you see them pulling anything up? That post is using resistors to pull down the voltage going to the headphones, lowering the overall voltage and volume. Got pics of wiring? Maybe you have something wired backwards...

If the wii you got came with video cables, those are all shielded, you can just grab some of that wire

The 003 error? That comes from changing a Korean wii into another region... Not sure what software you want to reinstall, there isn't anything in specific on wiis that could corrupt for bluetooth. Any more info as to what software modifications you made might help

Got a picture of the driver board? It's also unlikely that the screen actually draws that much power, the manufacturers usually label the power requirements decently above what it actually needs so someone won't have issues because their supply can't put out enough power.

1. You can always power the screens off of the direct battery voltage (through the CMB), and at that point most of the ones labeled 12V will work fine. Also, if you post a picture of a board you'd like to use we can give directions as to how to power it off of lower voltages. 2. The input...

You can do the U10 before trimming, but if you don't cut the trace you will cause the wii to shut off almost immediately

If you're using the onboard regulators and it doesn't stay green, that means there is most likely a short somewhere, or the trace isn't fully cut. Try following the trace up the board a bit and cutting again there. The RVK boards are the same as all the other 4 layers, with the exception that...

The RTC battery is on the controller ports board, if it got shorted or it's just died you'll probably have to replace it

That protection board looks fine. To charge the board, you would connect a smart charger to the P+/P-, and to discharge you would connect P+/P- as your power input to your board. Since smart chargers are only made to charge batteries and not power both batteries and the wii, you would need to...

It would probably be better to power the screen off the same batteries you power the wii from. Are you planning on trimming/custom regulators?