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You may be able to find some on eBay or Etsy, but really if you can't take apart a GameCube controller you should re-evaluate this project. Taking apart a GameCube controller is simply 6 triwing screws. Opening a Wii is much harder than that. If you're instead referring to pushbuttons which the...

Moving this thread to spam forum, there is nothing useful to be discussed here.

Yes, just try several resistors between 100 ohms and 1k ohms.

As it's indicated on the PCB (by the 3 holes near the LEDs on board), the LEDs are connected in a common cathode configuration. There is also already current limiting LEDs on the PCB, although in my experience I would add more resistance as without them LEDs will be quite bright. So basically...

The shoulder buttons are indeed 3d printed. Also, joycons are not broken once they start drifting. Simply replace the analog stick and they are good as new. Even cleaning the analog stick will probably alleviate drifting for a good while. Better to just buy the buttons on eBay.

Nope, the PMS has everything the PSU has.

Buy a quality iron (personal preference is Hakko FX888D, Weller WLC100 is also acceptable if you want something cheap), buy some good solder and flux as well. Recommend Kester 63/37 solder, Kester 951 flux. Get some tweezers, and various types of wire (suggest 34-38awg magnet wire, 22 and 26awg...

If you want to use USB C and are not using batteries, you don't need PD. The USB C board from the store only works in conjunction with the RVL PMS. You can simply use something like this. I would suggest you use that with the RVL PSU from the store. FYI, some people on this forum can 3d print...

I have that one and it works great. But hot air is definitely not necessary for the kit.

Nice! How did you modify the housing for the controllers? Any pics of the internals?

I could probably post a schematic later, but essentially the way the circuit is implemented is that there is a small resistor in series with the p1 3.3v supply (I used 20 ohms I believe). This causes a small voltage drop, to around 3.25v, still enough for the controller to work, when it's...

What you could do is cut out the piece of the Wii PCB with the ports then they should come out fairly easily with hot air or solder wick. It's kind of hard if you do it on the Wii motherboard because the ground plane will sink a lot of heat. That said it should be easier to remove them from your...

All the components are in series if both ends of the components are colored, or in parallel if only one end of the component is colored, with the signal. Given the option, pull the signal from as far down the trace as possible to capture the series components. For example, it's best to pull...

On my Wii micro, which I've used extensively for close to a year, I used a trimmed down version of the ports than cut off all the filtering components. I haven't had any issues. The PTH regs certainly output stable enough voltages. FYI, 5V is only used for rumble, so it's not necessary unless...

Is this meant to be a worklog? Or spam? We have a forum dedicated to spam if the latter..

No point in swapping it out if you haven't confirmed that it doesn't work yet. - Test the input voltage and output voltage, they should both be 3.3v - Test that the 3-pin blob is continuous with ground - Test that the trace is cut (there is a via you can test continuity with if you trace it...

You must short the 3 pins on the one side of U10. BTW, you really should switch out that insulated wire for magnet wire.

There are many things wrong here. Most obviously, given that this is a 6 layer board, you must connect the two 1.8v points together (see the 6 layer expansion trimming guide). Next, none of these wires on the back are going to fly. They are likely shorting with many things, you must pick up some...

Yes for sure, building them yourself doesn't really save very much money unless you build multiple. Buying them from the store saves the headache of testing them and potentially assembling them incorrectly.

Hot damn, that render looks crisp