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For starters, 6 layer boards are not good for portables. They use twice as much power (meaning your battery life is cut in half) and generate twice as much heat (meaning you need considerably more cooling). Secondly, no, it doesn't really get any simple than what's in the trimming guide. If...

He is saying you need to a have a wire connecting ground on the Bluetooth module to ground on the Wii (solid meaning a good connection). The guide is extremely clear about what you need to connect. As mentioned above, the necessary 3.3v connections, ground, and the 2 data lines that must be...

The trim and wiring looks very neat. Great job! Remember to check for shorts before booting.

I would wager probably CMOS because there's no pullups on the output. IIRC the function is to time a reset interrupt on the Hollywood after it has ample time (200ms) to power up. @Aurelio knows for sure I believe. I would be interested to see if this would work as a drop in replacement. I think...

Noah uses EAGLE iirc. It's nice because it's free for students. Another alternative is KiCAD which is free/open source. JLCPCB is generally a great option for ordering PCBs. Their boards are high quality and very cheap. For tiny, low quantity PCBs I tend to go with OSH Park because while the...

Eventually... ™ Jokes aside great job, I hope you are able to finish this soon!

If you feel like sanding the case, the best way to do it is wetsanding with increasing grit. Start with like 400 grit to remove large imperfections (but don't use this for too long as you might start removing a lot of plastic). Then gradually increase the grit in increments of 200 or so until...

I think you are misunderstanding me. When you solder a wire, after you pull away the soldering iron, the solder will take some time (around half a second to a few seconds depending on the size and heat) for the solder to solidify. You want to make sure you hold the wire in place while the solder...

The 3.3v points on the bluetooth module are connected in parallel. The best way to do it is to connect them all on the module, then connect a single 3.3v wire to the wii motherboard. Also don't solder to the vias if you don't have to, it just makes the work harder. There are plenty of easier...

You've already been warned, stop bumping old threads. We will ban you if you continue.

The hb channel still works even if its upside down. In the worst case, you can always access priiloader by shorting reset to ground on boot.

The Hakko FX888D is the go to iron for me. If you're on a budget the Weller WLC100 is an acceptable choice too. A hot air station is nice to have if you plan on doing more electronics work in the future but it's by no means a substitute for a good iron. I personally use a generic 858D clone from...

Unless you want to use the GC ports for something, no. They will both be 4 layers.

I'm not a huge stats person but I suspect you will receive some heavily biased answers based on the fact that 80% of the people on this forum are here to make a Wii portable.

Wow that looks fucking awesome!

You can desolder the joysticks easily with some desoldering braid. BTW, both joysticks are the same, only the stick cap is different.

No you don't need the preamp if you are using the U-Amp. You should remove it. I don't recall what the correct resistance is on the 3.3v line but if it's above like 1kohm then you are fine. Trim lines look fine, I would rip off that big inductor first though. Good luck! :)

You actually want *more* solder than less. As @splain said, having more solder on the pins will allow the solder to remain liquid longer as you alternate between sides of the chip. So really you shouldn't use solder wick at all. It might help to remove as much of the original solder as possible...

I usually just break the *inductor* off. As for the case, I usually just lay my pcbs under the Wii since the Wii is lifted by the heatsink/fan.

Looks great! Finally someone is making a detailed worklog.