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Post some pictures of all your wiring

I have tons of spare parts from wii trims, feel free to dm me on discord!

https://mabdelectronics.com/collections/samsung-sdi-18650-high-drain-flat-top-rechargeable-batteries/products/samsung-inr-18650-35e-8a-3500mah-high-drain-flat-top-rechargeable-battery That's pinned in #modding-discussion in the Discord server, I buy all my 18650s and 21700s exclusively from them.

Doing the old school U10 relocation is perfectly fine, I still use it for all my portables. It makes no difference which one you use.

You need to generate it from the EAGLE files provided in the original thread.

There are definitely a lot of places here that could be causing a short. To be completely direct, you're going to need to fix almost every solder joint on here before you can move forward, as almost every single one is cold. You need to use more flux (and possibly more heat, 345C / 650F is a...

Very unlikely, if anything, that's a tad high (I usually run 650F / 345C on my iron, I'll bump it up to 700F / 370C for large ground planes), it could be your tip though. What kind of tip are you using?

To add, it looks like the solder joints for your U10 relocation (both at the component and via) are cold, meaning you are likely not using enough flux. I would highly recommend adding some flux to those joints and then reflowing them. You will also need to desolder any components on the edge of...

I mean, some of the Aliexpress portables hardly trim the mobo (iirc some don't at all), so it's doable.

I made this post a while ago, seems relevant: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/cost-of-tools.5130/post-54654

That dig by the 1v15 cap is also pretty bad, you could be shorting the different layers, and there's no way to remove it by sanding, you'd need to trim that section off. Completely doable, but if if this is how the initial trim came out, I wouldn't risk it at this point.

The resistor ladder is on the driver board itself, rather than an external button board, so you can wire buttons straight to the header points. If you do need the exact values, I can take a look at a board I have on hand at a later time.

The two data lines need to be very tightly twisted together, best done using a power drill. Also, clean up that board! Pics of the rest of the wiring would also be helpful.

Post some pics of the board, hard to get an idea without seeing what we're working with.

If I were you, I would retrim a bit and cut from that gash to the edge of the board by the 1v15 cap that way it's one long, straight cut. Having gashes like that can potentially create shorts between the layers of the board that cannot be sanded. Definitely give that trim a very thorough sanding...

My bad, I meant R23

As per Shank's Super Wii Thread, R23 is 270k ohms

To add to the 3D printing part of it, a lot of people (myself included) like to use the resin / nylon powder printing services from JLCPCB and PCBWay, some of the basic stuff is pretty low-cost, and the quality is impeccable. I personally *love* the SLS / MJF nylon from JLCPCB, it's pricier than...

In terms of parts, everything you need for the Ashida is in the Bill of Materials (BOM) on the main Ashida thread. In terms of tools / other materials you'll need, I made a post in another thread a while ago with a list of things you'll want / need for building a portable. Regarding some boards...

RVLoader removes the need for the disc drive and installs all the necessary cIOSs for USB-Loading, so you'll want it anyway. Plus the front end is the most portable-friendly thing out there. After all, it *is* made for portables.