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Ah, I meant the resistance between 1v8 and gnd on the Wii, not the PMS. Also B- is not directly connected to GND iirc, you need to have your negative probe on a GND pad.

That's.... very strange. Can you post a picture of you taking that meausurement, like where your probes are on the board, and your multimeter settings?

Consider me in need of new jeans, this is HOT HOT HOT!!!

The grey rectangle on the main RVLoader screen comes from the Wii being set to 16:9 (as it should for that screen) since the black background image is in 4:3 (640x480). Perfectly normal. As for the very red hue, that could either be a wiring issue or it could be the configuration of the screen...

After my last post, I wanted to keep on trucking and incorporate the flex onto my trim. Now, in case you couldn't tell from previous posts, I have a tendency to do things in the wrong order, despite my constant preaching to others to do things in the right order to save from headache down the...

What's the resistance between 1v8 and GND? It should sit around 36 ohms. It sounds like you have a short there.

I wish my prints looked as good as yours, SHEESH!

I wanted to wait until I made some more progress, but I'm just too excited to not post this here! I also can't help but be excited for this to be my 500th post on BitBuilt :D In order for it to fit right, C130 and C141 need to be replaced with tantalum caps. As for the flex... I will...

The PMS can't just take in PSU power on the battery terminals, you *need* an actual battery hooked up.

First and foremost, I want to say that you are already on an amazing path with the amount of research you've done, and how you've made sure to do all the intermediary checks and whatnot throughout the build. And welcome to the community!!! I would highly recommend testing with composite rather...

The PMS (all) requires batteries to operate, so you can't run it just off of wall power to the PD board. Depending on what revision PMS Lite you have, it may or may not work on 6 layer boards. In terms of wiring, you just need 1v, 1v15, and 3v3 to the Wii, and 5V to whatever peripherals require...

I'm still not fully understanding what you're looking to do here... you don't need to desolder the power port prior to trimming. The only things some people remove prior to trimming are any components that sit on (or close to) the trim line. You can desolder any and all of that stuff with just...

You don't need a hot air rework station (different from a heat gun, a heat gun wouldn't be appropriate for this application). If you're talking about removing the LDO or U10 (as mentioned in the previous post), you can still do both of those with just a soldering iron, as long as it is capable...

So you bought a PMS1 without knowing what it was and without knowing what it looks like... for a non-portable? Weird, but I suppose you can roll with it given the info you provided. The PMS is an all-encompassing power management system (hence the name) for the Wii. It handles battery...

Internal pictures and price?

I was really hoping to have some flexes in my hand by now, but alas, DHL is on holiday until... today... so I can't flex yet. That being said, I still have a few little updates: First and foremost, after a great deal of deliberation, I have decided on the name of the portable: The NSight64 (or...

If you have a PMS or PSU, give it a power test with the bare essentials (voltages, U10 and composite).

If you have it on the 20k setting, it represents kOhms. So if it says 5.2 on the 20k setting, it's 5.2k (just an example).

I'm wondering if the calibration on your DMM is just really shotty... The pic of guyman's table is referencing an OM6 trim (6 layer mobo) which has much smaller resistances on some of the lines, notable 1v. You should be getting around 130 ohms on the 1v line, 45 ohms on the 1v15 line, 36 ohms...

Red goes in Omega, black goes in COM. You can set it to 200 for 1v, 1v15 and 1v8, set to 20k for 3v3.