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Sidebars, sidebars, sidebars.... I am just having too much fun focusing on all the little things before cramming everything into a case (or am I just procrastinating? Who knows?) Before I started this project, I was reading through all the old worklogs I could find, and was very inspired by a...

You're reading all of those voltages in reference to 12V, that's why your readings are wack. Those are the differences between the output voltages and 12V. You want to read all of the voltages in reference to ground: black probe goes to ground, red goes to the voltage you want to read.

There is hope yet! Wiis are very hard to fully kill, there's likely just a strat solder ball or poor sanding somewhere, it's better to diagnose this one than grab a new one (better for learning diagnostic skills, at least).

You just want to make sure you're getting the proper voltages from the PSU and that they are the same on the Wii (wires can add a slight voltage drop, but your lines are pretty short so I don't think that would be a problem). If any of the main voltage lines are shorted, the regulators should...

It helps to double check your resistances on the voltage lines once everything is hooked up. You're only really looking for dead shorts that shouldn't be there. Also be sure to check all of your voltages, both at the PSU side and the Wii side, while it's powered on. Perhaps something is up with...

Dude this is AWESOME! This is exactly what I had in mind when brainstorming a controller PCB for my portable-to-be. I love how everything is integrated either on the main board or through a simple FFC; so little manual wiring! I'm definitely going to take some design cues from this, very inspiring!

Pics?

You don't need to sever the trace if the board is already trimmed.

U9 and U10 are the same part. For seeing what combination of U9 / U10 the Wii will work without, check out the U10 Troubleshooting Guide.

You should be looking at about 0.8A / 9.6W @ 12V. Looking back at your previous post, it looks like you haven't relocated the U10, so the Wii will not boot.

A few things: It looks like you do not have mode tied to 3v3. That needs to be connected for the Wii to output VGA H and V are swapped on the silkscreen of that driver board - you might have to swap your lines for it to work Those H and V joints on the AVE look pretty janky, I would go back and...

BQ24292i

Yeah, magic smoke definitely means something is busted. If the BQ is blown, DM me, I'm no stranger to replacing blown BQs!

Looks like a kaboomed BQ to me. 2S will do that! No PMS revision (from 4Layer or Gunnar's original) supported 2S. Gotta follow the 4Layer wiring diagrams! Take a close up pic of that chip, it's likely blown.

Time for me to give up on my portable and build one of these bad boys. Absolutely beautiful!!!

That is a clean build!

That will work, but if you are willing to spend a little more, the AVE-HDMI will give you even better quality and, with it now being a flex PCB, is even easier to install than the Analog2HDMI IMO.

It looks like you trimmed a tad close to the NAND on this side. It looks like the 3v3 and GND vias on that side are still partially there, but the decoupling cap isn't. It might work, it might not. You should put on whatever games you ripped from your physical discs. As for bluetooth, that's...

This is incredibly sus: That could potentially be shorting the 1v8 and 3v3 rails together. Others have already said it, but I will emphasize its importance: you *need* to trim down the amount of exposed wire to just enough to cover the joint. Having an excess of exposed wire on a joint makes...