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I would update your post to add more specifics: Screen size, control scheme (original stick? Switch / 3DS sticks?), overall battery life, built in expansion pack?, digital or analog audio, internal ED64 or ability to use real carts, etc. etc. Most importantly, a price range. I would expect to...

If you are going the PTH08080WAH route, you need to hand-wire the feedback resistors and input / output filter capacitors. If you go with a PSU-Plus, all of that is handled on the board and all you need to is wire the regulator outputs to the Wii.

Post some pictures of your current setup (trim, wiring to the PMS and screen), etc. etc. Did you sand properly and check your resistances prior to wiring everything up? Again, I don't know what your setup looks like right now, but it should only consist of the trim, screen, and PMS (and...

Check out this thread.

At the moment, I'm not doing any trim commissions just due to time constraints. That being said, I have also never done a wifi relocation, so it's not something I would be comfortable advertising. Maybe sometime in the future I can give it a go on a board of my own, and I'll see how it turns out.

Holy quintuple post, Batman. For future reference, you should edit your post to include whatever new information you have, rather than posting 5 times in relatively rapid succession. That helps keep the threads neat. As for your PMS problems, if everything is looking good now, then I would...

In a pretty funny turn of events, @CrashBash was my secret santa (I was his last year)! He absolutely HOOKED ME UP with a lunchbox, blanket, box cutter (with tons of extra blades), some solder wire, electric salt and pepper grinders, a tumbler, and a sticky pallet! The best gifts are the ones...

That looks like the driver board used for the 5" 16:9 screen. You want a 3.5" 4:3 screen / driver board for a G-Boy. This is the best screen you cam get for the build: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPt6Dg0

Yes, that is perfectly fine.

Pulled from 4LayerTech's U-Amp 2 Page:

Did you set the triggers to analog mode in the RVLoader controller settings? They are set to digital by default.

It will work if there's an SD card in. If you're in the Homebrew Channel and you're only seeing th SD contents, you can change to USB by pressing 1 on the Wiimote (there's also a button for GC but I do not remember atm)

Yes, the NAND is tied to the GPU. The keys are backed up if you dump the NAND with Bootmii. I am not fully sure if you would be able to flash a new NAND with the backup / keys and have it work, I have never tried it myself.

The coin battery is used to hold the time for the RTC. If you remove it, the Wii will still work fine, but it will not hold the date / time.

You should look into using a GC+ instead of an OEM controller. They're cheap, allow you to put buttons wherever you want in your portable, and allow you to use just about whatever sticks you want (gamecube-style, joy con-style, 3DS sliders, etc.). They're pretty cheap too.

It's hard to say whether it's borked or not without having all of the little / obvious things attacked first. Switching to stranded 22awg would take out one possible factor. I also noticed that there are a couple components on the edge of the board (on both sides), those could also be an issue...

Yup! Just check out the Definitive Trimming Guide, it has the pinout for that section of the board.

You could go that route (Señor Avacado did that for their GC- Build), or you could recreate the pad in KiCAD and make a simple button breakout board. I did that a couple years ago, and it uses replacement dome stickers to get an OEM feel:

If you are using an official controller, the pinout is as follows: If you're using a 3rd party controller, this is the pinout: As far as where to wire them to (from the Definitive Wii Trimming Guide):

Have you verified that all of the pins on the NAND have continuity with their corresponding pins on the original footprint? You have to check from the actual leg of the NAND, not from the pad on the flex, in order to ensure continuity. If all of that checks out okay, I would still give the pins...