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If you had 7.4V going into your B+ line, your PMS is definitely cooked. Hard to tell what exactly since nothing looks particularly smoked, but the PMS is designed to only be capable of a 1S input. Anything higher than that can and will lead to damage to the board (normally the BQ chip fries but...

A couple questions: Regarding Rule #2, does every single image need to have the "BitBuilt Summer Comp 2024 (username)" card in it? I have a couple pictures regarding my project that don't have the card in it and I can't go back in time :^/ Somewhat related to above: last year, it was stated (in...

Yes, though I was having some issues with the stick calibration, so Gunnar sent me a different version. It seems like no two builds are alike, as people have mentioned having strange issues with the code, all seem to be pretty different, so who knows what it is.

If you're new to the hobby, I would highly recommend trimming your own Wii, it helps you understand the anatomy of the board a lot better! Study up with the Definitive Trimming Guide, it has everything you need to pull off your first OMGWTF trim! I believe you are also already a part of the...

Chuck the two wires in a drill and hold the other end, let'r rip!

PMS2 / Lite is 1S only, do not put 2 in series!

You can join their Discord server: https://discord.gg/wS6bNYVvPS

It's been a long time since I have updated this thread. Unfortunately, I have not made any real progress in terms of this portable. I've been spending time catching up on commissions and other parts of life, and I hope to get back to this portable once the summer rolls around. That all being...

This thread is a mirror of the OSD Control Board GitHub repo. All files are located there. OSD Control Board This OSD board is a simple set of logic gates that allow the screen driver boards used in portables to be controlled with button combinations from the built-in controller. This was a...

I have uploaded all the source files to GitHub and have updated the original post accordingly!

You cannot use a band saw, as the teeth are far too coarse and can delaminate the layers of the board. You can get a decent Dremel or equivalent rotary tool for pretty cheap these days. Here is a list of tools that I recommend beginners pick up. They are all from my own personal use and / or...

That thread is a bit old and some better equipment has come out since then. I made a list of tools here that has been updated as of yesterday, and I plan to keep updated as newer / better equipment comes out.

Swooshes like that definitely make for a possibility between shorting of multiple layers, best thing you can do right now is check your resistances as per this guide: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/wii-trim-resistances.2602/ I'd also recommend using a dry toothbrush to clean up...

Not an interference issue. Iirc it's an issue with either RVLoader or the Wii trying to spit out 480i, which this driver board will not handle over VGA. One of the two, I can't remember. Either way, it's normal behavior for an Ashida.

You should still get audio without those lines connected to the U-Amp, it just won't show the U-Amp being present in RVLoader.

When using the U-Amp with the analog pot control (or buttons for digital control), you do not need to wire up SCW / SDW to the Wii, they are only needed if you're controlling the U-Amp via WiiHUD. I have found that wiring up SCW / SDW when using analog controls causes some kind of...

6-7 ohms is a normal resistance for the 1V line on a 6 layer board.

You'll have to make your own, I have links to the TRRS plugs and GCC extension cables in the BOM earlier in the thread.

A couple of months ago, the MGC crew decided that we wanted to build one of @Nicholas298's sexy N64HHv2s. Being that I already had most of the parts, I was more than willing to bring a kit with me to MGC. That being said, no one attending (myself included) had ever built an N64HH, so I wanted to...