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To add to what Stitches said, I would recommend touching up all those solder joints with some flux, and a nice fat tip, as most of them look cold. Having a good, temperature controlled iron (I usually keep mine between 350C and 400C, only going higher for big heat sinks like ground planes) and...

Anything carrying significant power should be 22. Magnet wire (~34) is perfect for SCW / SDW, as well as U10, 1v8 reference, T-, etc.

Generally (for Wii stuff), 22awg is used for high power stuff (Wii, screen, batteries, charging, etc.), 34awg magnet wire is used for powering thr BT and MX chips, and is used for data lines.

It's just so that you can solder multiple wires / thicker wires, they're connected to the same trace.

I forget if it's SLS or MJF, whichever was cheaper lol. I'm very happy with the feel of it.

I ended up having to sand down this lip, and then I sanded some parts of the buttons as well. Can't quite seem to get it perfect, but I'm getting decent actuation.

I've resin printed the buttons included in your zip (they look to be exactly the same as Gunnar's originals), but they do not seem to fit in the shell. Comparing the back half to Gunnar's, it looks like you added an extra lip that it's catching on. Was this on purpose? And do you have a...

That via is pretty far downstream, so it's fine that it's gone. Like Stitches said, solder to TP47, it's the easiest point. The yeeted via has a very low possibility of affecting anything.

Yup!

I definitely need to do some thorough testing before I even think about selling, but if all goes well, I'll build them if people want them.

I've got a new PSU in the works, if all goes well, hopefully it'll be done next weekend.

Do you have an untrimmed Wii you can try it on again? If so, give it a shot. If it works there, then it's probably your trim. If it's bad there too, then maybe your files on your USB got corrupted. If you don't have another Wii, skip right to replacing the RVLoader files on your USB.

https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/wii-trim-resistances.2602/

That looks pretty solid to me! Yup just remove any cut-though components and what's left of the stock voltage regs, give it good sand and you'll be good to try it out!

Yes, and a lot of people recommend it. Just remember to cut the necessary trace from the Trimming Guide.

You can get a decent rotary tool for $20 on Amazon, I would highly consider the added cost of an easy, safe trimming experience (and a tool you can use in the future) over hacking away at the board with tools not meant for the job and a significantly higher risk of screwing something up.

The Ashida BOM is located on the 4LayerTech website, it lists everything you need to build one. As far as tools and other supplies go, I made a post here that seems relevant.

Yes, you'll need a 6-layer, but you can get one for ~$20 or less on eBay. Check the Noldendo Miicro thread for the trim lines.

If this is your first time working with this kind of soldering / project, I would recommend going with something a bit simpler than a full-on portable - namely a Wii Micro. The Noldendo is what I tend to suggest for many newcomers since the BOM is pretty cheap and the build process is...