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Pics of all your wiring?

Noodz, as promised:

If there's a dead short bewteen 1v8 and gnd, it will not boot. I have never seen a wii work with any of the main voltage lines shorted to ground.

I just finished building one of these, here are a couple more things you'll need: The battery tabs in the original BOM are wrong, these ones are right You'll need these for the Start and Z buttons You'll need some thermal tape between the heatsink and the copper plate This is a good drive, but...

I'd try giving the edges another go with some sandpaper. Start real low (around 80-120), then 220, 320, 400, 600, 800 and 1000. You should be expecting about 36 ohms on the 1v8 line... Then give it one more go around with some IPA...

Anything on the edge that you trimmed through needs to go:

You need to format to FAT32 or it won't work with RVLoader.

What brand / model USB are you using? And did you make sure to format it to FAT32 32k clusters, and that all of the RVLoader files are copied over correctly?

After a long night of building with @GingerOfOz, this is one of two builds I completed on his stream! Features: Barrel jack for 9V or 12V DC input HDMI out via AVE-HDMI PSU-Plus for power (to be fully revealed soon™) JLC SLS shell + MJF controller plate Transparent resin-printed power button...

I'm still seeing a bunch of cut-through / sanded-through components on both sides of the board, along with a lot of flux residue and some stray solder balls here and there. Use your iron to desolder the cut/sanded-through components on the edges, then give the whole board a scrub with some IPA...

Send pics of your board as it is right now, maybe it's a stray solder ball somewhere.

@SparkleBear has a couple portables for sale, I would recommend buying from him over an eBay seller, as we all know SparkleBear makes god-like builds, and in the event anything ever went wrong with it, you would easily be able to get in contact for service! Here's some of the stuff he has for...

The resistance is going to change when you wire it up to the voltage regulators on the PMS, so that could be an okay resistance, but I do not know. What is your battery voltage? That sounds like the batteries don't have enough juice. I believe the bare minimum voltage the PMS will work on is...

PCBWay does the translucent resin shells that everyone loves, but they're pretty pricey. If you want something a bit more budget friendly, they have more economically-friendly options, or you could order it from JLCPCB. They don't have translucent resin, but they have some really cheap options...

I personally think the white one looks pretty sleek, especially with those blue buttons!

$60 is a drop in the bucket in the world of portablizing. The Bill of Materials (BOM) for the Ashida is around $250USD iirc, and assuming you don't have the tools / other materials to build it (different kinds of wire, flux, wire strippers, koptan tape, etc.), you should expect to pay...

If you're a complete beginner to soldering, I would highly recommend starting with some soldering kits from Amazon. They're cheap, and they're a great place to start to hone your skills before moving onto more serious projects. That being said, when you feel like your soldering has made great...

Just to double check, did you check the resistances between your voltage lines on the Wii prior to wiring the Wii to to PMS? If not, I would desolder everything and follow this guide. Moving forward from there, a few things: You have too much bare wire exposed for all of those joints. Ideally...

Those resistances look good, I don't think your issue is stemming from a short on the power lines if that's the case. To reiterate, I would do like Stitches said and remove anything that you trimmed through, and then rework those current solder joints and add an extra ground. If neither of those...

The Definitive Trimming Guide has the wifi pinout / relocation vias on the Wii.