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Yes, any non-white Wii (black, blue, red) is a guaranteed 4 layer.

You'll need to wire the power switch / button to the PMS / ground.

Look for non-white Wiis on eBay with broken disc drives. I can usually find one for ~$20 with a quick search. If you're having difficulty, you can also look for white Wiis with serial numbers LU7, LU12-19. Those will be 4-layer boards.

Max Vin of the PSU regs is 17V iirc, don't feed 20V straight in. Regarding the 4-layer, they only pull about 6W give or take, so if you only had 10W max, you'd be okay for that.

If your USB C board is configured to negotiate 5V @ 2A (10W), it won't be enough to power a 6-layer (appx 12W). Have you checked your voltages when you try to power on? If the input voltage / PSU voltages are sagging really bad, it's likely hitting the current limit.

All those resistances seem okay to me. The fact there are no dead shorts is a good sign. The voltage lines' loads are not purely resistive; they have a capacitive load as well - this causes the "jumping" you see on the 3v3 line. That's actually a good sign!!! Every meter seems to act a little...

3 things: -Did you check the resistances between your voltage lines after you sanded, as per Nold's forum guide? -Is the U10 wire even soldered to the via? It looks to just be "inserted," not soldered. That could be an intermittent connection, causing your issue. -I'd reflow a bunch of those...

I'll take 2 with the older FW, please!

Apologies, I should have clarified. I more so meant from PhoenixRetroMods, he's one of few people who actively sell portables on Etsy. I have also sold portables there, as has Gunnar. It's not the site I don't trust, it's just that seller. Same guy the PS2p above came from. I have one of his...

I'm really hoping you didn't get an aliexpress / etsy one...

That makes sense, they can hold you accountable and would be able to take legal action if you didn't pay. There's no contract here, and an independent seller likely wouldn't want to take that kind of risk. Sure there could be legal repercussions, but that would be very costly for an individual...

I wouldn't say ruined all your progress, but my best guess is that it was just dead batteries. I'm not sure what the exact voltage is, but the PMS cannot operate when the batteries are below a certain threshold (somewhere around 3.3-3.4V).

Oh yeah that's too low. Charge those bad bois up!

What's your battery voltage?

Pictures of everything (your wii, the rest of the portable, wiring etc) are needed to help you out here. As you mentioned, continuity isn't what matters, it's resistance. As long as you're getting appropriate resistances on the 1v15 and 1v8 lines, you're good there. As for the Wii turning on and...

Oh, so you mean you'd prefer to do 4 payments? Personally, I don't ship out portables until I'm 100% paid. I would not expect anything different from any other sellers here.

What do you mean? Specifically for a G-Boy / WiiVision?

You really need to sand with the right grits, what you did likely is not sufficient. Have to rule out the basics before we can dive deeper into other potential issues.

You can't measure resistance while there is power flowing, only when it's turned off.

Regarding the thermal tape vs paste, I would use tape between the copper plate and the heatsink, and paste between the copper plate and the Wii. That's pretty standard with the blower fan / heatsink / copper plate setup that many portables use. Dremeling the loop off that drive took me a solid...