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Promo code BADASS!!!

You can't use a 4 layer board for a noldendo trim, it won't fit in the shell... send some pics of the full back side. Also worth nothing you have too much wire exposed for almost all those voltage lines, it even looks like the 1v15 line is touching the lid of the CPU.

The short silver screws from the Wii work perfectly for those holes (any many others internally).

That's only if you have RVL-DD (Direct Drive), for the driver board, you need to connect buttons between K1-K5 and ground. IIRC the order is Power, Menu, +, -, Source. There is no way to natively navigate the screen menu once the portable is closed up. I made a custom board that taps the button...

All of those can be created with the files provided in the original post. A little googling will go a long way.

Can you pop it open and send pictures of all your wiring?

Silly first thought, how much charge does your portable have? If it's opened up, what's the battery voltage? Could just be too low for the Wii to boot.

It's a PMS2 Just as a starting point, I see some trimmed-through components on the edge of the board. Those should be removed. Did you check the resistances between your voltage lines on the wii prior to wiring it up to anything else? That's usually the first diagnostic tool for nonworking trims.

Looks good!!!

Those apps are stored on the USB drive, you'll just rewire it to the Wii and be good to go.

What'd your battery voltage now? Could potentially be breaking down under load. And send pics of all the wiring, they'll help a ton.

I believe the LDOs are interchangeable, but you could check the feedback resistors on both boards just to make sure those aren't different. If you're interested, I have a bunch of leftover LDOs that you can solder back on, just pay shipping and I'll send it your way. Feel free to hit up my PMs!

That could be U10. Correct, you don't need to relocate the U10 if you use the U10 emulation from the PMS. Just to double check, you installed RVLoader and patched out wifi prior to trimming, correct?

For you questions: 1. I believe that pad is ground anyway so you should be fine, you can double check the footprint of the other shoulder button by either just looking at it or using a multimeter in continuity mode for extra assurance. 2. You'll really need a hot air station to get that all the...

PM'd

Nothing is immediately jumping out to me other than some cold-looking solder joints and some burnt flux around the board (best to clean that stuff up now)... What is your battery voltage? And what voltages are you getting when you turn on the PMS?

It might be within your best interest to go with a dedicated screen and driver board, rather than trying to salvage one from a DVD player, as it has all of that other DVD player crap on the PCB. Here's one I found on aliexpress, but if you search anything along the lines of "7 inch 16:9 IPS"...

You're right with where 5V and Gnd go, no issue there... Have you double checked around the board that there are no solder splashes or other shorts? And are you sure you put the ribbon cable in the right way?

I built one of these a little over a month ago, here are a couple pointers for anyone looking to build one: The battery tabs in the original BOM are wrong, these ones are right You'll need these for the Start and Z buttons Light Pipe FFC Connectors for Joy Cons Speakers You'll need some thermal...

Hey gang, I found 2 more original RVL-PSUs while digging through my stuff, so here they are! Price per board is $40 + shipping (usually $5 for USPS First Class). Payment through PayPal Friends & Family.