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It's a rougher texture, but still pretty nice. Personally I like MJF more for something I'm going to be holding in my hand. Here are some prints in SLS:

A lot of people (myself included) use JLCPCB or PCBWay. My personal fav is JLC's MJF nylon, it has a super premium feel, but is soft enough material that you can really drive screws into it without the risk of snapping screw posts like with resin.

Without much soldering experience, I would say it likely wouldn't be easy to put one together. That being said, there's a first time for everything! If you don't already have a hot air rework station, I'd highly recommend picking one up. Supposedly there are some decent 858 clones on Aliexpress...

You'll get just the blank boards with no components, so you'd need to order all the parts from Digi-Key and assemble them yourself. I do sell pre-assembled boards if you're interested.

Nice!! Glad it's all working. Definitely sub out that wire for some 22awg stranded for your final assembly, 10awg is pretty overkill for the job and solid core doesn't bend well and could snap / take components with it if too much strain is put on it.

You need to use 22awg stranded wire for your main voltage / ground lines between the PMS and the Wii. Whatever gauge you're currently using is way too thin.

This Sandisk 128Gb Ultra Fit is what I use in most of my Ashidas and it works very well! As far as screws go, the ones from the Wii will be more than enough for assembly. It mostly uses the short, course thread silver screws.

The Bill Of Materials (BOM) in my initial post has everything needed to build one. There is no step-by-step tutorial, as this is an extremely complex build that should only be attempted by those with extensive knowledge of the Wii's anatomy. All the information needed to build one can be found...

Looks like the two support pads are still in tact, so you could just tack the button down to those, then manually wire the button back to the vias the traces go to.

A couple of notes: Be sure to remove all of the components around the edge of the trim that were trimmed though. Having half-components still on can cause shorts / other weird stuff. All of those joints look very cold. Make sure that your iron is set to a good temperature (I usually keep mine...

I use the dark theme but this is my background image:

The PMS 2 / Lite cannot be used to power a 6-Layer, they are meant for 4-Layers only due to the current limit on the regulators. On a similar note, why are you trying to use a 6-layer for a portable build? They draw twice as much power and generate twice the heat of a 4-layer board, all with...

Desolder the wires, cut the exposed part so that there is only enough to cover the pad, then resolder them.

Those look spot on to me

Also let's see you file structure on your drive

Best thing you can do is take pics and post them here.

K1: Power K2: Menu K3: + K4: - K5: Source You can do the same thing Ginger did with cuttting the trace between the 2nd button and 3v3, then wiring it to gnd.

Sounds like either a cooling issue (system is overheating) or a USB issue. What are your thermals looking like if you power cycle it right after it crashes? And how long are your USB data lines?

PM'd!