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Ah yeah, you don't need the replacement NTCs, the PMS2 / Lite comes with one. You'll need 34awg magnet wire and 22awg stranded wire at a minimum, it's also good to have some stuff in the middle for wiring things like power for the UAMP / GC+ (like 26/28awg stranded).

A cutter? What exactly is that? There are a lot of gouges along the edge of the board on both sides, which could potentially short the outer and inner layers of the board together... The component next to the NAND that got yeeted is a decoupling cap, which isn't 100% necessary, but the vias...

That looks good! Be sure to give it a good sanding up the grits, and remove any components you trimmed through on the edges. Check your resistances following this guide, and report back!

Aside from the cold solder joints, it appears you soldered composite to the wrong side of the composite filter cap footprint. Solder it to the other pad and give it a go. I'd recommend redoing those solder joints with some extra solder and plenty of flux.

Have you tested this trim with composite yet? That should definitely be done prior to trying VGA. If you're still not getting a signal with composite (and mode not connected to 3v3), then it would seem like the Wii is not booting. It's also worth mentioning that some screen driver boards...

Ah, it's untrimmed. I was assuming it was trimmed; if it was (and you were powering it from an RVL-PMS2), you could use the PMS's built-in U10 emulation. As it stands, you'd need to relocate the U10 to the U5 footprint (which you can still do, even with the missing pad), but you'll need to cut...

Send some pictures of your wiring. It's very hard to kill a wii, so it's likely this one can be saved one way or another!

That pad is not needed! It's left floating (unconnected to anything else on the Wii) once you remove the passives surrounding it, so that Wii should be A okay! As for the solder, the only way to get lead into your system is through ingestion, ie. touching solder and then eating food or...

It's pretty much the same as wiring it with PTHs or the OG PSU, just wire the regulator outputs on the PSU to the corresponding voltage rails on the Wii (no need for hand wiring the regs like with the PTHs).

Before you buy another Wii, send some pics of the damage on your current one here. Depending on what pads you lifted, there might still be hope! Given you can use the U10 emulation from the PMS, you don't even need to relocate the original U10. As for your tools / technique, you actually want a...

After 5 months of letting it sit in a box with only digital audio wiring left to do, I can finally say that the BB-Boy we started at MGC is finally done! It's a @Wesk remix of the OG G-Boy with a custom screens lens (courtesy of @SparkleBear). I felt it would be more appropriate to post here...

Yes, you can calibrate the sticks in RVLoader. You can also wire 3v3 and ground / SX and SY backwards to reverse the direction of stick movement / axis.

You need to use guiformat (google for the download) to format the drive.

The set pf 5 pads are only for the MCU to be programmed by 4LayerTech when the boards are built; they are not used by the end user. The jumper pad labeled LRA underneath should be soldered if you are using LRA motors, otherwise you can leave it un-jumped.

Depending on how much clearance you have between the CPU / GPU and the heatsink(s), you can use thermal paste, thermal tape, thermal pads (only if you have a significant amount of clearance, and if the original pads from the Wii are squished / torn / dry, do not use them). Some extreme builds...

Honestly, it really is worth it to just order everything you need in Dustin's thread to make the remixed G-Boy. It's a bit more effort up front (and you'll need to do some minor PCB assembly), but it's worth it to have all the upgraded hardware in there.

Holy moly, that setup is wild. I have have a few spare sets, feel free to dm me and we can work something out!

As far as tools go, check out my post in this thread. For a worklog, you'd go to the Wii section of the forums, start a new thread, and there is a little drop down menu to classify it as a worklog.

Did you ensure the correct orientation of the button when installing it? It can go on 2 ways, but only 1 is correct. I had to beep out the buttons with a multimeter to figure out which orientation was correct.