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>:)

Ya know, it's just such a great thing to exist

Thank you for existing

Let me know how it all goes when assembling them!

That's wicked! They turned out pretty good!

Update time! So for the past little bit while ive been waiting for my packages that have been stuck in the strike to come in, I have been diving into the world of C coding, PIC Microcontrollers, and I2C etc. Im happy to say that as a complete beginner to it all, I've been able to interpret code...

Yes and no. The ps2 joystick is analog and uses 10k potentiometers for it's signals wheres the switch and vita use digital joysticks, so unfortunately it wouldn't be as easy as just hooking digital sticks up. You would need a whole lot of extra stuff to make it work. The next best thing is the...

If your sure everything is okay hardware wise, you could put a disc in it and listen to see if it's spinning as it should when booting a game just to confirm if things work software wise. Again, if your sure on the hardware aspect, it could also be stuck in YpBpR or RGB mode. If it was set to...

The regulators can handle a max input voltage of 17v but the LDO's can only handle 16v max. So the max this board can take is 16v!

That is very possible. If everything checks out okay on the hardware side of things, then it's possible something software wise got corrupted. Try testing the resistor arrays that are between the cpu and gpu on both sides of the motherboard. They should be 47 ohm iirc, but if they're not in...

Ah okay. At least the console boots but it might be a little harder to narrow down your issue now. Hopefully the DAC isn't fried. Are you getting any activity at all on your TV when turning on the console, or nothing at all?

Just to confirm, your console hasn't been otherwise modified has it? Are you testing using the video out port?

Glad to hear you got it figured out! Is the DAC getting warm when the console is turned on?

Great work! I'm happy to see people are releasing solutions like this for the PS2

It sounds like the 7.5v rail is either shorted to ground somehow, or you have a faulty LDO. I would test any capacitor connected to the 7.5v rail to see if you can find any shorts to ground and also recheck your fuses (specifically any fuse that might be connected to 7.5v) whereas you put power...

So it's only low resistance and not a dead short? (0ohms) what's the exact resistance your getting between that fuse and ground? All multimeters have a certain threshold in continuity mode that will cause it to start beeping when theres low resistance but it doesn't always necessarily mean...

Are you testing continuity on both sides for the fuse alone, or are you getting continuity between either side of the fuse and ground? The fuse itself should have continuity, but if it's shorted to ground, then that's a bigger problem.

The PSU does a kind of hybrid of undervolting and technically overvolting by 500mV. - So the PS2's 3.5v rail is ran off of 3.3v on the PSU - Both the 2.5v and 1.75v rails on the PS2 are ran off of 1.8v on the PSU (hence why i said hybrid of undervolting and slightly overvolting as were running...

Love this! I'm super glad somebody's already building one! Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions! Glad to be able to contribute and help out the community!

As per the definitive PS2 trimming guide, the 1.75v rail on the PS2 is known to be sensitive and has the potential to cause booting issues when using a switching regulator so I used an LDO which has a more smooth output to combat this. This board was personally just for testing when it came to...