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Pretty much, except for the last part. It would increase the amount of current the system can draw to the point where you don't have to worry about it. When using a boost converter like on those powerbank things there will always be some limit to how much current you can pull and once you reach...

You would be cutting it very close. The average portable consumes just above 11w iirc and I doubt that those 2 outputs are separate, resulting in only being able to supply 10W at most (probably the same supply, just different resistors to tell a sink how much current to pull) I'd go for the red...

I’m sorry to disappoint but a powerboost 1000c wont be powerfull enough. As its name suggests its only capable of powering stuff up to 1000mA. This would give you 5W, which doesnt come close to the amount of current you’ll need to power a portable. I suggest you read through the battery guide...

When it comes to building portables, its better not to reuse old parts. If that battery pack came from some RC thing or the DVD player, I have to say its better to read through the battery guide in the guide section, then get the recommended batteries (3400mah 18650 cells) and use something like...

Hi, welcome to the forums! To create a new thread you need to reply to another thread first. This is to combat spam. As you posted here you should now be able to make one. If you want to restore the Wifi functionality just run the cheese installer again, there should be an option to restore...

You should be able to use a multimeter to measure resistance. The resistance between 5v in and GND should always stay constant even while moving the slider. Then the resistance from the wiper pin to ground should always change when moving the slider. I have to say though this might be a...

Yeah, for stripping it you just put some solder on your iron, then heat it up a bit more then your normal soldering temp and then just dip the end if the wire in the hot solder for a second or so. That way it should be both stripped and tinned.

Looks nice, tho i gotta say, maybe try using magnet wire for wiring up buttons as there isnt really any current flowing anyways and magnet wire is super thin thus compact. You could also make select act as wiimote sync or maybe reset?

Its alright :) Nope. Never got the regs in the end so couldnt test them, sorry. Got a refund tho, so not all bad.

Oh F I thought he meant the SMDs next to the AVE Sorry didnt notice the pic was of the smds next to the AV port. Yeah ur right, those arent required.

No, those are required. If you need space just desolder the large caps, but don't change anything about the shape of the OMGWTF trim.

You can remove them, but it might affect video quality. I never had any change in video quality due to removing them but you might. If you have the room, keep em.

Ah ic, nice. Wasn't edited when I commented iirc.

The voltage drop is probably caused by some sort of short in your regs. Your regs might be toast as well, but I can't be sure without pics. Can you post some?

This is pretty useful I guess, but I'm linking it and not uploading cause of all the "CONFIDENTIAL" crap on it. http://aitendo3.sakura.ne.jp/aitendo_data/product_img/lcd_controller/Xs/RTD2660.jsp.pdf Then there's this, the PTH08080Wx datasheet: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/pth08080w.pdf A...

You can just use 3.3V for the sticks as well. The buttons all go to ground on one connection, and whatever gc+ data pin on the other, except for L and R (the analog ones). These are connected to 3.3v and the data pins. As for the analog stick pinout, just google em lol. Pretty sure some place...

RVL-CPU-020 LEF10488019-5 White

I know a fix that seems to always work, just run the game in dolphin and export then copy the save file to the emunand folder on your USB drive. This way the game detects and existing save file and can write to it just fine, as only the free space reading is wrong and most games don't use this...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-2-TFT-HSD062IDW1-60Pin-800x480-LCD-Screen-Panel-VGA-AV-LCD-Driver-Board-Kit/173582726608?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3D3bbe8616caf94b1ea39cb39e16d19a30%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D272216772020%26itm%3D17358...

look in the BOM for the 6.2" panel with VGA driver combo. It'll do the job and have sorta nice image quality (for a cheap TN panel)