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Dont forget to add a gnd connection between the wii and your LCD, it wont work without one. If you decide to use shielded wire, just solder the shielding to any gnd point on the wii (big circular pads of copper) and on any gnd point on your LCD. Using the negative power input connection is...

Test between the two sides of those traces. Try carefully scratching the traces like you do with bluetooth. Do it for 1 or 2 traces on either side and test continuity. If there is no continuity your wii is dead. The only way to make it work would be resoldering all of those 6 traces which is...

@ShockSlayer Clearly you haven't been online much..

Jeez i haven’t updated this in a while. Basically i started designing a new driver board for my display. I have been designing it in a way that the only thing you need to do with your display to get it working with this new driver is transfer the firmware chip, which shouldnt be that hard. (I...

You can search for parts and their corresponding footprints on ultralibrarian. They have a nice collection of 5ish million parts. Eagle has a TON of premade packages and symbols pre loaded btw, so for ffc connectors or simple ics (eg lm1117) i would just use those.

Going from 320 to 400 to 1200 should be fine. It is not great but the wii should work. Those resistance values look good btw, it should work but for safety I would sand it with 400 and 1200 to be sure.

Yeah, it looks good. Why did you get the holder and board? Do you just not want to solder to the cells? Also, do you plan on using custom regs or not and what is the output voltage of the board?

Do you plan on using this wii or will you replace it with a 4 layer one? If I was you I would buy a new BLACK wii on eBay for 15-20$ since those use much less power and your battery will last much longer, even if you don't trim your wii. Also, before testing your wii, sand it with 200 - 800...

If you cut through it using the guide it basically means it is safe to remove.

By measuring continuity between each voltage rail and gnd. So measure these: 1v to 1.15v 1v to 3.3v 1v to gnd 1.15v to 3.3v 1.15v to gnd 3.3v to gnd They should all have a resistance higher then 15-20 ohms. If its lower, keep sanding and use higher grit sandpaper. Edit: yes, those copper bits...

Yes, you can cut off that area. However it is not recommended since you are cutting of your USB protection circuitry. You CAN also just solder the USB data lines to the visa next to the components, since they aren't cut off however if you then plug a faulty USB device into your wii the data...

@Ewhizz I was mapping the nand traces in the compendium anyways, so here are some screenshots of where they are:

It turned out great! I like how the frankencasing looks so seamless. Also nice that you kept the original card and (rumble pak?) slots. I have to agree with the fact that it's really big, but that isn't a problem if it feels nice in the hand imo. Also, where are those nudes?:P Nice that you got...

Made some more progress over the last few days. A friend of mine had an exact copy of my lcd driver board so i prdeed a new one for him and asked him if i could have his. There was a problem when i plugged it in though, the colors were all fcked up. So i asked for help in de BitBuilt discord and...

Edit: Look in the post under this one, since thats probably what you're looking for The LCD controller board sadly isn't for sale separately, so you would have to buy the entire unit at once. If I was you I would just buy an entire L7009 from DX...

I have to say, it looks really good for a first portable. The case is really nice and clean. And you also have batteries, something i had the space for but didnt do lol. Looking forward to see more of your projects!

There are AV1, AV2 and AV3 pins on the bottom of the board. You would normally hook up Y Pb and Pr here but you can also hook up composite to either of em. I'd use a switch to switch from Y to AV1 for instance.

So, I was trimming my display driver board yesterday but kinda fcked it up. When I turn it on now it defaults to the AV2 video setting, and doesn't remember hdmi anymore. Also, it randomly switches inputs now. I could probably fix it if I wanted, but am going to order a new one for now, since...

Welp, just recieved my screen. After some help from @GingerOfOz i was able to get it to work perfectly. I also got it to work from 3.3v, so if you have the same driver board as me then heres how to 3.3v "mod" it. The driver board is really common, so heres a picture to check if yours is the same:

@Shank In all seriousness though, your plan is looking great! Nice essay lmao