Search results

Locked, PM me if this needs to be reopened

Do you mean enameled wire? It looks like bare wire but there is a coating on it to prevent it from shorting on things

Got pics of the board? Can't tell what you cut off without em

Yep, you pulled that pad off. Since that is the output pin that you run the wire to, you don't need to worry about it, just solder the wire directly to that leg instead of the pad For that you need to scrape the solder mask off the top of the trace to reveal the copper below, which you can...

1. https://github.com/ikorb/gcvideo 2. Yes, https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/gc-documentation.695/ 3. On the right side, the vias 2, 3, 6, and 7 are referencing the pins listed on the original guide

1. This should hopefully help https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/commonly-used-diagrams-and-pinouts.2367/ 2. GC+ needs power, ground, and data. The power/ground comes from the regulators, and the data goes to the data pins on the wii board, listed here, specifically to the vias...

I'm actually surprised as well considering the popularity of things like the PiGRRL from adafruit, the only things I found were a couple that people seemed to have hand-made, no plates actually for sale :rothink: I assume the easiest way to make something like that would be to essentially...

U sure? :rothink: https://www.amazon.it/Hakko-fx-888d-stazione-saldatura-70/dp/B077B9Q6SJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=hakko+fx-888d&qid=1562692753&s=gateway&sprefix=Hakko+f&sr=8-1

If you have digital versions of the scans you can line them up as different layers in something like paint.net or gimp and see where traces go

You could potentially get away with using the pi's GPIO for buttons. There is no USB connection on the GC+, it is specifically made to work as a gamecube controller, not a USB one.

The second picture should be able to identify the motherboard revision, which is different from nold's trimming info You can most likely still trim this board, but you would have to do more research, potentially creating another set of scans of the layers in this board revision.

:rothink: if only that picture answered his question I would assume it is at least 4 layers, possibly 6. The easiest way to find out for sure would be to sand the board down and count the layers (posting high DPI scans of these would help for future reference as well)

You want to swap power sources for a few reasons, one being that 5v referenced to the battery ground may not be 5v referenced to the pc ground. Deo is also right that you don't want to backfeed power into a regulator since you'll most likely fry it

Locked If you want the thread unlocked send me a pm James

1. You could most likely power the monitor off the USB ports on the ps2, as USB runs on 5v. 2. The way to figure out how long you will be able to run is to take the Wh rating (multiply volts times Ah) and divide that by how much power the console/screen/speakers use. 3. You should be fine using...

Depending on the drive, usb usually pulls around 0.5-1A, and the rumble depends on the motor

When the PCB fits just right

Katsukity

Nah you didn't fry it by putting 8.5v. You also won't see any voltages besides 5v, as those come on when the system is turned on. Have you tried using the relocation point for reset to see if it's just the board with the buttons that isn't working?

If you intend to power the console through the dock when it's switched on, then yep, that would be the place. The power switch would function like normal but it would be getting power from the dock instead of the batteries.