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From his website: That's his price for a board installed in a controller, as well as notching services. So cost of board, cost of controller (gamecube controllers have become very expensive), cost of labor for cleaning/assembly, and cost of labor for notching. As someone who's roommate mods...

I'll take the joy con parts, psp parts, and Gameboy please!

Did you test this, or are you only speculating? Mike's 2x circuit could not passthrough 480p. When I asked him about it, he told me the chip he used was incapable of digitizing 480p, only 15khz signals. This is why he used a different chip/circuit for his 2x multiformat. If it can pass through...

Case was wet sanded with 100, 220, 500, 1000 grit sandpaper. Wetsanding in the shower is a big brain strategy. Sanding prints allows you to smooth out the lines, but leaves the case pale, white, and faded. A coating of clear coat restores it's original, vivid colors. I used matte clearcoat...

Lots of wetsanding. Getting close

Final PCBs, assembled and programmed. I went with red, because... well... Duh

Just got my secret Santa present from @CrazyGadget in the mail. It's a custom GameCube controller, built to my aesthetic. White front, blue back, clear blue buttons, blue and white paracord... and of course, 2 pupils. Thank you CrazyGadget. I love it!

Unfortunately not. You will need to replace it. You can either use a U9, or steal one from another Wii. I believe @jefflongo found an off-the-shelf drop in replacement for it though, so he might be able to provide more information

I have also transitioned away from Kester-951, but I have switched to Kester-186. Each behaves differently and I feel like each has its own place. I feel 186 is a lot messier, and needs cleaning (even though it says no-clean), while the 951 basically disappears on its own. I still use the 951...

I got an idea

Excellent job! Both the body work and paint job look excellent

I used replacement docking rails for the switch, not the charge grip. The charge grip does not hold tight. I have the plastic of the 3d printed piece pushing against the side of the switch tightly

There is no release piece. 3D printing a piece that small that faces mechanical forces is recipe for disaster. Instead, pat of my designing refining process was tensioning the rails so they apply friction on the switch itself. They hold in place with a good amount of force, but can be pulled easily.

For sure. At first I was paranoid about magnet wire not delivering enough current... then I remembered the whole system load is less than 1.5 watts, at 5v, and the cart slot has 60 pins. Fortunately, Gman is always there to solve my problems.

Whats this? Shank actually being responsible and updating his worklog for once? A rare sight to behold. Anywho, A lot of this project has been tentative and experimental. I don't like sharing info I'm not sure about. A lot of this stuff is unsure, because nobody has ever really made a virtual...

Nice! Looks awesome. We don't see big portables too often anymore.

Beautiful

Yo ill take it