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Are you going to use config files for that? like xml or ini-files? If so, it would be really easy to make a section for every title-id in the config-file. Plus we could write a little PC-App to create/change layouts.

I really like your power wires! Also, is that black magnet wire?! looks pretty dope

we've been talking about reducing variables, right? ;-) So, remove those batteries & use a PSU. Remove USB also (data wires might be a little long anyways) & solder reset to gnd to bootup priiloader. Then shorten the wires of the regulator, as short as possible. After that, turn it on &...

Mode is also a Via, that changes the AVE output from RGB to component when shorted to 3.3v. See trimming guide. Do you try to test a trim, using an untested video? Basically what you want to do, is eliminate as much variables as possbile! So personally i would just use composite, cause it's...

Same for me & i also have a MK2S - so no excuses @Predue89 ;-) Maybe you should trim the Z-Offset just a little lower? And yea, support helps with those fillets. I wouldn't use a raft, as it will completely destroy the benefit of the smooth printbed.

So you got the NAND-Bend working? nice. Did you already do the LDO relocation? If not, i would recommend doing so before trimming..

Yea you'll need to load-test them, as the voltage will drop under load, so your 3.3/1.15v might be fine then, but 1&5v might be too low!

Did you measure those under load? If so, 1 & 5V are looking good. 3.3v needs readjustment. I'm not sure about 1.15v, but personally i would try to lower that one just a little, too.

What kind of glass are you using this time? IIRC you didn't really like the one from your previous project.. Anyways, tastiest thread on BB right now!

Also, which usb drive are you using? Did you try multiple ones? Otherwise "Get the Samsung" >.< Did you twist the usb data lines together?

if you're from europe, I could help ya, too.

Oh boi.. I'm speechless.. it's soo clean & beautiful! Absolutly sick work dude. Would love to see a vid or at least some size comparition :)

You should remove the severed components like C47. Also which grid did you use for sanding? Keep sanding it with >=800 grid, until everything is nice & smooth. After that clean everything nicely. On the regulators, the negative leg of the lower right capacitor scares me, looks like it might...

The lid on the top is pretty dope :D the rest is kinda scaring me, but whatever.. Anyways, can't wait to see your SNES project. I've been thinking about making a SNESp, too - but didn't find any great hardware to start with :\

Hehe yea, as i saw the intro the first time on my portable, i was like "yeahr! this is awesome!" - i really love it, thanks a lot! The stand is pretty nice, too. I've modeled it in like an hour & it also has a pass-through cable for charging.

I finally finished my video about my swiit woodii & updated the first post with some more promo pics & nudes. Hope you guys like it!

After scraping you should clearly see the copper of the trace. Then clean it up with IPA, apply flux & pre solder. Your magnetwire is AWG28~29 (0.3mm), that's IMHO way too thick! Even if you get it soldered to the traces, it might just rip them off later on, because it's pretty stiff. Better...

Damn i love this project! Keep up da noiize work!

I always used 100uF & the datasheet has it in the "standard application" schematic, too: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/pth08080w.pdf