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First of: Please stop double posting (See rule no. 3: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/rules.41/) Now to your project.. well.. did it ever work? like did you everything step by step & test every single modificate you made? e.g. solder in video output, test it; solder on 3.3v...

PTH08080 (soldered to a custom pcb) - they are de facto standard regulators for portables See this guide for more information: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/custom-regulators-an-explanation-and-guide.754/

That's normal when using noWifi IOS. I can't tell anything about the soldering on the mainboard by that pic.. but it should be ok - even if it could be better. (I like to use an electric drill for that btw.) For debugging you might want to short the data wires a little more.. but i think it's...

It's most likely an issue with the USB-drive, do you use the samsung drive we're recommending? Reformatting might also help, you shouldn't need to reinstall PM. Bad USB wiring might also cause such issues but i suggest it's just the usb drive itself. Sadly there is no other drive we can...

Sounds like a problem with the bluetooth module (Wii software will only work, when the BT-Module works). so might be bad wiring/swapped data-lines. Since the BT-Module also uses USB, twisting the data-lines might help. if you continue to have issues with it, post some pics.

Color: White (PAL) Serial: LEH21068091 [7] Revision: RVL-CPU-01

I've also been playing around a little bit with the mini, since i had a wkf lying around.. sadly it didn't really work out but i also had some trouble with the wkf in general.. So the wkf has been detected as a GC disk, but if failed to start... Also strange: the DIBRK signal is not connected...

Damn this project looks dope man! The Heatsink should be faily enough, if you have a good airflow & fan running at 5v or even 3.3v.. Also let me know how you like blender for 3D design..

I don't think that anybody on here can help you at this point. The wiring is hard to see & there are a lot of variables included. Like this massive coil of magnetwire... Did you measure the voltages, on the board while turned on? e.g. your ground connection in the top right corner of the first...

Not bad.. Soldering does look pretty solid indeed.. but can't say for sure from that pic. you didn't relocate any of the two capacitors, right? That might cause instability. My woodii's lmao has only one cap relocated & never had any issues btw. Personally i would recommend trying a little...

<3

I can barely see anything on that pic.. do you have a ground connection from the wii mainboard to the screen? Maybe that's all you need.. Also what's that blue thingy doing? 5V? And what's that pcb under the cpu of the wii?.. Man that board is scaring me.. Anyways: did you measure the voltages...

The difference between PAL & NTSC n64 is mostly the AV-Encoder & Region Chip (PIF). Also i've never seen any "higher revision" PAL boards but that doesn't hurt either.. As for trimming, they're pretty much the same. You'll also find some PAL specific pinouts i've made in the GuideHub.

I don't see why it shouldn't work. It's using the same DAC-Chip & i even used the pinout of the 6-layer wii a lot when doing this mod (https://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1086 - thanks ashen) I didn't use a 6 layer wii ave because the pinout of the vias is a little different , so...

lol.. i couldn't find this thread yesterday.. i think i'm going insane.. Anyways!.. I'm so jelly for this project. I wanted to do a GC/Wii-Nano for so long & the case you've found is just perfect.. hope i can get my hands one one of those, too.. some day. Also, sick nand relocation! can't...

Which "packs" do you mean? The download via the generator works fine for me: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?pages/portablizemii/ ?

Nice work, but it really looks kinda big on the pictures.. When you open it up again, take some pics of the internals - we all love nudes!

You mean something like this?

nudes or it didn't happen! B|

Did you measure the resistance on the voltage lines? cause they might be very low (like about 30Ohm from 1V to GND IIRC) 1.15V has nothing to do with the AV Port, it's used by the CPU mainly. Check the compendium, it'll tell you where the 1.15V "is/exists/lives/..".. (missing a word here...)...