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I used Nolds design with 4 layer wii. You will just have to perform a nand relocation and the trim line can match the 6 layer om6-ish footprint needed for noldtendo. The 6 layer I started with had a very glitchy video output as I learned was a design flaw from the factory. Better off to go 4...

If you add the scan lines it actually makes the “pixeliness” go away. N64adv has that option either with osd menu or closing jumper 4 on the pcb. Also, does anyone know any significant differences between n64adv vga boards and the Ultra boards from Marshall?

Dude! That JP trim relocation is so clean and crisp! Nice job on that. I have not seen it done that way before. I first saw the pakless termination from Akira and then Yveltal before taking it on myself. We all just manually hand relocated each passive on a buss wire. I’m glad to see this tidy...

Bro! This is monumental! I love finally reading through the log so far… long time coming mate. The bodge spaghetti is a good look :p You mentioned the mechanical aspects of controls (sn30 dpad etc) but what is the electrical element you’re planning? Little micro pi? Custom mcu solution? I’m...

I’ve never done the wifi relocation... maybe one day. just a few past builds to check my and bt. Cheers

I meant no disrespect dude. It was just funny you quoted his “don’t bump old threads” in your bump of an old thread. I’ve done the same thing before... no worries man. Thedrew was right on... just visit the guidelines and don’t take it personally. I’m glad you are wanting to be involved! How...

lol. the irony.

Smallest traces were 0.2mm. Most of them are 0.25mm... Vterm is .6mm. Internal layer trace for 5v to buss across the board is 2mm. The bottom of the rambus lines i used 0.5mm.

Have not gotten the board from JLC yet but I already integrated a digital audio amp based on the 64 amp designed by Gman. I also did a bit more tidying of the busses on the back side of the board as well as some silk tidying too :) I will probably just wait for the other set of boards to be...

I enjoyed spending the countless hours exploring the nintendo 64 on my last extreme trim attempt. Doing deadbug clock relocations, ramswap and manual ram termination was fun and rewarding... especially when the thing would boot and play games stably. @YveltalGriffin offered much inspiration for...

Yeah, using usb c would be an extra complication as the RVL-PSU runs off of 12v. That is also how Wesk designed it the build. Good luck with nand relocation. When you are ready to do another one reach out and ill give you some pointers that helped me :)

ViiW my dudes.

No, the red arrow is the sploosh. You will only need a very thin wire to go from 1v8 on the Wii to the 1v8 pad at pms. Either from the top of c5 or the middle pin of the sharp regulator. The wire can be 34awg magnet if you can work with that. It’s not carrying a lot of current. Also, try to...

Test your voltages at each capacitor where PMS voltage wires connect to the Wii. Also, check for 3.3 V at U10 out to via. What are those readings? What is the behavior of the composite video? Is it a black screen? Just static? No signal? You said it had worked before...What is the wii trimmed...

Oh... so you would just need an RCA cable. Center tip conductor goes to the via i circled. Sleeve/ring conductor goes to ground. if you slice open the cable you will find two conductors. Use meter to discover which is tip and which is shield.

I’ve been musing about following in the n64 complete relocation Pcb. Studying the board a while and about to start mapping out the circuit in kicad. if you just want to look at schematics you can find some at console5 that rdc drew up back in the day.

Did you have an SD card in your wii? That usually will supersede the usb drive hb folder in HBChannel. Pop out the sd card and the other hb will show up. Also make sure the file structure on the usb is usb:/apps/rvloader AND also usb:/rvloader. They should both be in the zip file from Aurelio’s...

That’s really nice man. I’ve definitely been thinking about how cool it would be to wifi share saves between portables.

Did you wire the mode pin to 3v3? Oh doesn’t look like it. That disables composite output. however, from your photos the board looks like it needs a good scrub down with ipa and a brush.. I’d start there and inspect all your joints. Clean all That residue and see where you’re at then :)

You cant use that part. Others have tried with out luck. Do you habe any magnet wite you can use for u10? That wite looks really thick. Im concerned it could pull up a trace. Nice thing about the thin magnet is it will break before the pcb parts will. also, Can you try to use a tv via...