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Test prints are in! I was able to shave off 5mm from the old design. It is now 41.5mm thick from top to base in comparison with the red model, which was 46.5mm. The new shoulder buttons truly feel really awesome compared to the old ones! Not much CAD work left to do now. After I’ve ironed out...

Hi everyone, I am selling my Metallic Silver G-Wii rev2 since it just sits on my desk and I rarely play it. I had a lot of fun building it of course, but it's time to put it into another person's hands that will play it a lot more than I will. I am selling it for $1000USD plus shipping costs...

A couple of big updates to the project, I think! New (very different design) shoulder buttons are in, and they feel wonderful. They use a spring hinge design that is built into the triggers themselves, rather than a physical spring. The hinge arm has had a weak point inserted, just enough so...

The clock battery is not drained when the Wii is on. When the Wii is off its entirely powered by the coin cell (in the Wii this is a CR2032 3V cell). I haven't done any current measurements, but I'd imagine that like most RTC circuits, current draw is very negligible when powered by the Wii...

Yep, that u10 will be fine! I’d highly, highly, highly recommend switching over to a 4-layer Wii for this project. I know you’re adamant on using a 6 layer, but you’re really shooting yourself in the foot by doing so. Heat generation is almost double that of a 4 layer, and battery life is going...

Looks great! What hinges did you use for the hinge mechanism? My portable inserts them from the outside, but yours are completely invisible which is really nice. I’d be interested in seeing how you mounted them, stop them from rotating etc. I am going to go the grub screw route for mine, since...

If the OP is trying to achieve original SP thickness, there is no way he is going to do so by using switch analogs in a clamshell. I’d recommend using sliders if you’re trying to keep it thin. Switch analogs will require a significant recess in the case to get them to rotate the full 360 degrees.

Nope, they are connected to the internal plane with these two vias.

I haven’t put sliders in it. The main reason for the drop in thickness is because I removed the USB port for a Micro SD card slot. The top thickness is... yes, something like 6mm which is ridiculous, but there’s not many alternatives when putting sticks in a clamshell. I’d say the 3DS sliders...

The main PCB is pretty much finished. I am going to wait a couple of weeks to order it as I want to make sure there are absolutely zero ERC/DRC errors this time around. I already noticed the 5V boost regulator package is broken and doesn't connect to the GND plane, so I'll need to fix that. I...

There is no open source files for this. Regarding the STUSB4500 implementation, the only information available is on Gman's blog page (Gmanmodz) and in the datasheet itself.

That is a composite input port that comes with the driver board. You don't really need it for a portable unless you want to have video out to an external source. VGA requires 5 signal lines (RGBHV) and your driver board will require power and GND, which makes 7 wires. For composite, you only...

@BocuD is working on a switch lite style Wii portable currently, but nothing is open sourced. You’d have to design your own in a CAD program like SolidWorks or Fusion 360.

Heh yeah I guess I have. I guess the true excitement will be seeing how transparent I can get it after a bit of wet sanding with high grit sandpaper :D

Actually, I have a big surprise for the case and how its going to be done. You'll have to wait probably 2 months though before its all done, but its going to be very nice!

Hi there. Creator of the Wii SPii here (the chunky one you probably saw floating around online). I think it's great that you are thinking of building an even better version than my SPii, but it will be difficult (not impossible, of course) for a first Wii Portable build. As Wesk mentioned...

Wow, those wire guides are super simple and yet so effective to keep the wiring neat. Can’t wait to see the final internals of this one. Keep up the good work!

The new shoulder button prototype is complete (for the right trigger, at least). I changed the shoulder button to replicate the original SP style, which uses a hinge pin and a spring to keep the shoulder button from falling down. There are also little "flaps" that prevent the shoulder button...

Wow, this looks beautiful. Is this your own resin printer or did you get it printed by a manufacturer? I definitely would like to print a portable with this!

Updates, updates, updates! I am currently working hard on finishing the second revision of the PCB! Today was mostly spent using tRestrict, setting the grid to a very small value and having fun neatening up all of the messy polygons. Thanks to YveltalGriffin for suggesting this idea! Although it...