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you could probably be able to do it under red light, such as a darkened room with a red head torch or a red light bulb.

don't throw the board away, hold onto it for a future project once you can trouble shoot it when you have more experience with portablizing, or you could see if an experienced member could use the board rather then just letting the board go to waste

id love to grab the box of psps, but shipping to australia is probably going to be too much

yeah digital audio, ill give that a try, fingers crossed that will fix it

Having some audio issues on my portable audio will be fine and then suddenly start hissing and screeching. whats weird is its an inconsistent interval, sometimes it will start almost as soon is a start getting audio from the game, other times i can have the game running for several minutes...

i cannot say for sure it might be alright but ill let someone with more experience say for sure, but you can always hold on to the board or give/sell to a more experienced modder they could use the board for some of the more advanced trims. Don't bin it

See the first post "Please, before asking any question, check the F.A.Q.: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/bbloader-f-a-q.3721/ "

Ooo the project is looking good. And i definetly like the dual input solution for the shoulder buttons.

Received my secret santa from @Lettuce the other week. I absolutely Love the addition of the Black DMG for my collection as well as the japanese Pokemon blue. was even pleasantly surprised by the inclusion of batteries on the DMG. Thanks a lot Lettuce.

Small update. Speakers have longer wires now ready for wiring to u-amp. The u-amp i assembled has now been programmed. Unfortunately the screen driverboard is currently dead after i tookout a component with a dremel while removing screw posts :( so now im waiting on a replacement, would have...

Thanks! Its brass mess for model trains and i absolutly love the contrast it has with the black. FDM case with a buttload of sanding, i was going to cast the buttons but decided to stick with the SLA buttons I even managed to get a pile of wiring done on the top half, most of the buttons are now...

Hey mate, welcome to the world of portabilizing. Im actually working on a wii U gamepad wii myself. So i look forward to seeing how your project goes. I would advise using the RVL-PMS for the handheld, its smaller then using WaHs. i think they are also more efficient but don't quote me on that...

Was working on my aran handheld screen and i accidently nicked a component on the board using the dremel and im hoping someone is able to help me out. with either a bypass or can identify the component i damaged. any help would be apreciated

So i've finally gotten a chance to work on my Aran build. Haven't had much time to work on it due to family health issues and school work But here it is mostly assembled, still need to trim the wii and wire everything together, and program the U-amp i assembled The light was a little yellow but...

these are the resistor values im using on mine

I've modelled the PS2 board (advanced trim) and the free mcboot card. Both are in the link A-s6 posted. ill be adding a Raspberry pi both both fully poputaled with components and with the components i plan to remove for my own PS2 build

the controller ic would be usefull for the PS2 design im working on, but i don't think i need 2-3000 of them

im interested in how you hooked up the controls to the PS2, as i don't see a ps2 controller board in the internals.

wrapping wire basically anything on the first 3 rows is what you want, what you have above is still 30awg stranded wire

Hey no worries mate. Life happens, wasnt so much about you and more about how things tend to go quicker on discord.