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Mate, been there quite a few times too. Frankencasing can be frustrating but that why it's so much more rewarding at the end;) If you are going to use ABS cement a good options is getting those ABS rod at bunnings. After experimenting with different ABS source those make a silky smooth ABS...

@Madmorda is correct, the link above is for a Sony PS2 controller, not every third party controller would follow those colours. The best way would be to open up the controller connector and see exactly which wires connect to which point on the female connector. Then based on that you should be...

You should be able to follow the order from that page. Also the grey one is for powering the vibro-motors, so you don't need to wire it if you are not using vibration.

@Stitches, thanks mate. Hopefully it will help people getting on the PS2 wagon. maybe I should offer my services there ;) @cheese that would be awesome, I was also thinking to clone the setup and put a link online but the only issue that I could see with this is the USB section, If someone...

While playing with this setup I was taking some notes an though compiling this into a step by step guide would benefit the community more than sitting on my laptop so after a bit of effort there it is. This guide will help you setting up a Raspberry Pi to stream games to a PS2. The point of...

Thanks @Doom & @cfc_12. It’s not the most original (just used a free font) but will work for this:) @YveltalGriffin That’s right, although the auto calibration is not gone but the annoying big red text “AUTO CONFIG” which used to display every time the lost of signal happened isn’t displayed...

Should be fine now, copied the wrong link again:facepalm:

So for the last few weeks I have been busy filling/sanding which isn’t the most passionating part of the project but needed to be done. In that time I also received a PS2 79001 model(NTSC) which I order a couple week ago. I tested it with the Dalian screen and as expect the image is perfect, no...

Thanks mate. Your best bet is online for this controller sadly. I’m in the same boat too, I live in Australia, so most of the parts I need have usually a pretty expensive shipping fee. I would also recommend trello.com as a tool to structure your project and keep track of what’s going on...

You could try to hunt down a third party controller call Genius maxfire blaze. I got pictures of it on my worklog. The are pretty compact and have through hole to solder to. The only thing is this model is out of production but there are newer revision of it (Genius maxfire blaze2, Genius...

No worries, for future reference this video explain in detail how to use a multimeter to check continuity.

You can get one at your local electronic shop, in Australia it would be Jaycar. If you go in store an ask for a multimeter they should be able to help you chose one. They range for $10 to a few $100 depending of your usage, any of them should be able to check continuity.

It you already checked the continuity with a multimeter then it should be fine, just check the other fuses

Probably check each fuse one by one. First look for any missing fuse, some of those fuse tend to just burnout. If you can't find any missing fuse then follow what Madmorda mentions, using a multimeter check the continuity between each side of the fuse to check if the current would go through...

Right, so if another ribbon doesn't work it could be a few things. Maybe the connector is a bit loss, in that case soldering a tact switch to the board would solve it. Another scenario is that there could have been a short when you power on the board. If there was any metallic parts touching...

Could be it, it's hard to see this on the picture though. If it's one of the contact you could try to put a bit of solder to fix it but could be a difficult operation depending of how confident you are with soldering. If not then the ribbon itself doesn't cost much and they are quite easy to...

I would first of all make sure that those ribbon cable are making contact, specifically the one with the power switch. Try to push the ribbon in the connector as much as possible without being too rough.

As I mentioned before I will sill stick with the splitter for now, I'm testing other stuff and waiting to receive a NTSC PS2. Was feed up of the shakiness of the PAL ps2 on the display. It look pretty straight forward if you want to do this instead of using a splitter board. You just need the...

I manage to get some time to play with this yesterday and I can replicate the same issue. the screen goes on and loss sync after a few sec and goes back on. My guess so far is that it could be due to the sync output. Based on the datasheet the LM1881M board output Csync (Hsync / Vsync combined)...

That would be an Aus model, so PAL. That's the one I have on my side Edit: Also you could try to connect the composite line to the screen. If it works it would mean that the screen is not under powered at least. Assuming the screen as a Video port