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. Ok but it still could be that something is shorting because of too much exposed wires or something else. Everthing could be the problem so the pics could help us indentify whats wrong.

can you post pics of the wiring?

You can install it then so it autoboots into RVLoader. You can still use the Wii Menu after that. Last thing i can think of is getting a modified version of wiiflow IF it exists.

You don't need to install RVLoader in order to use it. You can use it as a normal homebrew app. Just press no when it asks you to install.

The Family edition is a RVK-CPU-01 or 02 IIRC. The error your getting is from the Usb drive (in this case an adapter) a new good card would fix this

I think that you dont need the DD mount because its for the RVL-DD that isnt available

That depends on how long you want your portable to last. I would take the highest capacity ones.I think it was about 3800mAh. The max capacity is 3600

the USBPD does use a button with the PMS

Look here: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/custom-regulators-an-explanation-and-guide.754/

Might be a U10 problem, but i don't know for sure. You could replace it with u9 and see if the output changes. Remember that too much heat over some time can break the chips.

This has been done with gpu's and it can actually work sometime. What it does is reflow the solder under the chips.

Im just gonna asume its a dead trim and I need to get a new Wii.

I actually thought of that too but if @RedEnergy uses lipo it might be too thick with the heatsink since he wants to make his portable as thin as possible.

This will be really useful. Just a question. Where will you get 5v for Usb?

Actually that Board supports 5V at the jack Edit: Ignore this needs 5.5v to work at the jack

Have you tried 5v directly at the jack? Some boards support that. If it doesnt work send close pics from the chips with the names recognizable. Edit: I just noticed that i have the same driver board just with a different screen connecter (the 2 unsoldered ports on top) and this one works with 5v...

Maybe you could make a Flexpcb that you can connect to the 6 data pins that has the socket on it. Would make wifi relocation way easier.

Didn't work unfortunetly

Could it be that the board is just dead? I know it had some voltages issues with the on board regulators which is why I wanted to use it with custom regs.

Here pics of the trim Couldn't get good shots of the sanding but its really smooth Any help is appreciated