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Can you post pictures of your actual wiring?

What you call a "motion sensor" is actually a bunch of IR leds. That's it. It doesn't sense anything... the "sensors" are on the wiimote. The purpose of that IR led bar is to serve as a point of reference to the wiimote to know where it's pointing at. The picture isn't really clear enough to...

That's gonna need some clarification, what did you do exactly? Also what are you calling a "motion sensor"? is it the "sensor bar" that you put on your tv? Can you post pictures of what you did exactly?

those joints look a bit cold IMO... But regardless, one thing you can try is to reset the joystick settings by holding A+X+Y during boot and see if that helps. You might have to do this a couple of thimes, I found that it doesn't always work for whatever reason.

I understand your frustration but you don't have to trash the whole thing... Shelve it for a while and come back to it in the future with a clear mind and hopefuly with more experience having worked in other projects... Study the compendium, understand the innerworkings of the N64, and maybe...

The photos are very blurry so it's hard to view anything in detail unfortunately... However, did you run a wire from the U10 chip to the U10 via on the back? because on the pictures it doesn't seem like you did... (again, could just be the poor quality). If you didn't then that's a major reason...

ah. good point. veeeery slim chance their display doesn't like 480i then (should normally display a double image or something like that in such cases, unless the driver has specific logic to detect that and stop it or some weird crap like that)... I just think it's very weird that they used 2...

I remember that when I installed my kit on my non-trimmed wii I had to bridge 3v3 and Mode on the video pins... So maybe the kit itself doesn't do that by default... Maybe that's what you're missing? check continuity between the mode via and 3v3.

The pad for H seems like it's gone? (although it wouldn't matter much if you solder directly to the AVE leg, I think) EDIT: BTW is the nand capacitor located at the edge of the board gone? it kinda looks like it... I don't think you're supposed to remove it.

have you confirmed that the drive is good? did you try a different drive to rule that out? is the wii already cut?

I'll test Kirby later. DKC Returns works fine but nunchuck MOTION emulation isn't yet implemented so that's what makes the game unplayable, however it does boot fine. If you do the BT relocation, you can play it with real wiimote and nunchuck without issues. As for Mario Galaxy, I played it a...

Could it be that maybe you were so incredibly unlucky that your bt module decided to die at the worst possible moment? Was priiloader installed prior to all of this? do you by any chance have another bt module to test (or at least access to another wii to borow one for a minute or two)?

aaahh gotcha, yeah now that I look at the picture in more detail I can see a trace going from 24 to 23... but then, doesn't that mean that connecting the breakout to the original position on the N64 board those pins should also be shorted in there as well? On the picture it seems like it's only...

I might be completely wrong here but looking at the breakout board it kinda seems like there's a pin mislabeled or something? like, the pin labeled 24 seems to actually be 23? Am I crazy?

Probá poniéndote a programar vos entonces, genio. El código es público, nadie ni nada te prohibe abrir un pull request. Intentá ser más constructivo en tus críticas, por lo menos se más específico en los errores que estás notando, qué juegos andan mal, qué mapeos están mal, algo. Quizá de esa...

can you post a picture of the GC+ board soldering? even though the connections might seem solid, did you test for bridges?

I don't think so. You enable VGA when installing RVLoader but you always test the trim with composite so no, I don't think it disables it. AFAIK VGA only replaces Component.

Aaahhh, such a noble fruit is the GCVideo-DVI. My gamecube still has one that I installed ages ago... I remember looking at it as a real challenge back then. That 4:3 screen does look sexy, I have to say. I want a 4:3 ashida.

Yeah I was careful to leave "plenty" of space for them. In the picture they look a bit sketchy, but I did clean them up afterwards.

lol I'm so glad that everything is so conveniently in there, juuuuust in reach of the correct legs on the u10 ic. It's almost made on purpose lol. I was not aware this was a thing until a few days ago... I saw a picture and was like "wait, what?? is that cap 3v3 on that side, no way" I checked...