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Thanks! I don't know if/when I'll release it because it's definitely not perfect yet. I'd like to keep working on it and possibly make a new PCB.

This tiny board is an IR camera emulator for the Wii remote that interfaces with a touch screen. I only came up with the idea a few weeks ago, so it was a bit unplanned and I've had to wire it directly to the FFC connector. It operates on the same I2C bus as all the other Wii remote peripherals...

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That should be fine as long as it's not a really long cable (I've had no issues so far with a 100mm cable). The HDMI lines might cause interference in audio devices if you run audio wires right next to it, so try to avoid that.

I made a little pinout diagram for this Wii remote so that I can interface with everything through the vias underneath the main IC. The Wii remote is all wired up, except for the accelerometer and some other things. The Classic Controller operates on the same I2C bus as the EEPROM, so I have...

Thank you! With my current prototype, I can pop the 2 FFCs off and the two halves of the portable are separated, so that's really nice. It does make disassembling and repair a lot easier. Unfortunately, yes, there's hot glue :D. I have to use it to hold down the boards that don't have screw...

I'd love to contribute to some kind of guide, but I don't know how helpful it would be. Part of the trouble with making a Wii remote trimming guide is that there are countless revisions of the Wii remote and I only know how to trim this one specific board.

I tried to trim the Wii remote in my last portable, but it still ended up being pretty big. I wanted to figure out how to make it as small as possible this time, so I took sandpaper to one of my 4-layer boards and made scans of all the layers. With those scans I found out how to bypass...

Can't forget about the back half of the portable. I got the batteries and power supply board mounted first. Next I got the AV board mounted, put some thermal pads on the heatsink and fan, and stuck a copper sheet on them. I also put a bunch of wires on the power supply board so I can be ready...

Eh... not really. ;)

Thank you both! I want to do something to hide it and I'm considering my options. I removed the bezel and spray painted it black for the prototype, but I can't do that this time for reasons.

The screen is in. Unfortunately the bezel is slightly visible because the 3D print isn't perfect, but it's not jarring. Starting to connect everything internally with FFCs. The FFC for the long board at the bottom is folded over and likes to pop out of place, so I have to hold it down with...

Yes, I get mine from eBay. I think mine came from the link on Gman's BOM.

3DS joystick caps came in. I'm liking the accent of gray. I'm using some thin spacers from an original 3DS between the cap and the joystick so the inside of the joystick is never exposed.

@Nils Fagnère I got the white buttons and the membrane underneath from a DS Lite, but I designed the purple boards myself. The black metal piece that I painted partially white is the heatsink (this one in particular). It's the same black part you see in the second picture. And yes, that silver...

If you are dealing with a GameCube controller specifically, I'd just use the GC+ as Stitches said. If it's a different controller, you can sort of do what RDC did with his converter. He used a PIC microcontroller and a separate DAC. You'd probably need to communicate with the DAC via I2C or...

The headphone jack, Wiimote LEDs, IR LEDs, and a bunch of buttons are on this board. The start, minus, and home buttons are SKQGAAE010 from Alps, which I recommend. I'm using original membranes from a Wiimote on them.

Thanks, I was going to remove that tape anyway, but I don't have any thermal pads yet.

Now that the matte finish is pretty dry, I've put some buttons and LED diffusers in the front case. The LED diffusers are 3D printed with translucent PLA and they work pretty well. Not as well as a real diffuser, but it's not bad at all. I painted the front of my heatsink white so it will...

I clean what I can with alcohol, but I've never tried a toothbrush. That might actually work pretty well. I plug the drives into an internal USB port and wire that. I don't want to risk soldering anything to a 128 GB flash drive because I once had one stop working unexpectedly and I couldn't...