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My custom PCB (it's earlier in the worklog) is based on the Pluto IIx-HDMI board, which is described on the GCVideo-DVI GitHub page. And my LCD driver is based on this board, which can take the HDMI input. My batteries are Panasonic 18650 3400 mAh cells, which are in the BOM. There are pink...

You know what that logo reminds me of? A winner.

Yes, that works. Plug it into a TV and it basically becomes a regular Wii console with batteries.

The only thing that is powered when the system is off is the microcontroller that controls power cycling. There is a separate idle 3.3V line for that, much like the original Wii has.

It's a normal screen with a touch panel glued on. I am interfacing with the touch panel directly, so it has nothing to do with HDMI.

Thanks :D. I'm sure I'll be saying the same thing about your GS2 when it's done.

Valid question :D. Here's a list of what the new one contains that the old one did not: An internal screen that utilizes progressive HDMI video, not interlaced composite video Fully digital video (no component to HDMI converters involved) A touch panel Seamless play and charge with one DC power...

The new ones have through holes that you can solder to from the back. See here:

I switched to the newer version of 3DS joysticks so I could solder to the through holes without removing it from the case. You can see I also had to tilt the accelerometer (next to the Wii remote) at an awkward angle because it was calibrated wrong for some reason... It's done :). Final...

I went through about 14 GameCube motherboards and several failed case designs over the course of two years before I FINALLY made a portable that worked. And I'm glad my earlier attempts didn't work out because I learned essential skills by messing up so many times.

Yes, it's exactly the same bus. The speaker and the EEPROM work on this bus as well. Pretty much the only thing that does not work on this bus is the accelerometer. The read address for the camera is B1 (write address is B0), so the Wii remote sends out this address on the I2C bus whenever it...

Yeah, I'm sure you could emulate the accelerometer with a microcontroller or something similar. The accelerometer has a publicly available datasheet, so all the info should be out there. I've been shaking my prototype a lot and not heard any rattling yet, so I think I'm good :D.

The 4.3" screen is good for widescreen games. I wouldn't go any smaller. The 3.5" screen is basically the same height, but a 4:3 ratio instead of 16:9, so it's just as good when you don't need widescreen.

I can't quite do that with the internal controllers since there is no nunchuck :(. But at least I could connect a separate controller for a video. I may do that.

The negative pad only provides ground when the rumble is active. That's how it turns rumble on or off. So it sounds like your 5V supply is fine.

You're referring to the ground supply for the whole controller? I'd think that the controller wouldn't work at all if it had a faulty ground supply, but try supplying ground from somewhere else and try a thicker ground wire as well.

The main reason is what @Aurelio said, the DS Lite buttons have a squishy membrane that I prefer over tactile buttons.

Did you check that there is actually a 5V supply? There may be no voltage despite it being connected.

I've run into weird issues like this a few times with the GameCube and never found anything wrong. Seems like they just randomly die. Can you detect abnormally high current on any of the voltage lines with your meter?

It's getting close :). I need to get those shoulder buttons in there. Other than that it's just about done.