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The original idea OP posted looks interesting. There's plenty of information already available about the Joy-Con design, so making a custom PCB wouldn't be too hard. The crucial parts are the BCM20734 Bluetooth chip, charging IC, EEPROM, and IMU. Those are all probably pretty easy to deal with...

IR camera emulation uses the right joystick to control the pointer. Classic Controller already uses the right joystick but Nunchuk does not - that is why the pointer only works in Nunchuk mode.

Classic+ now supports IR camera emulation as well. It can be controlled using the right joystick only in Nunchuk mode. The original IR camera needs to be removed for emulation to work, but you can disable emulation entirely in the homebrew app if you don't want it to interfere with the original...

Yep. The original Nunchuk doesn't work with SNES Classic, so it needs to be in Classic Controller mode. It's not the same protocol used on Wii/Wii U but it's not very different either. The original Classic Controllers as well as the SNES Classic controllers have the ability to work in either mode.

Classic+ now supports SNES Classic. NES Classic should work too but I don't have one to test.

700mW rectangular speakers like these work best for me.

I think the LM49270 is a good choice even without the headphones. It requires very few external components except for the microcontroller. My code has slider functionality too.

Be careful, not all Wiimote+ models are TR versions. There might be some way to tell with the serial number on the back but I'm not sure. 3rd party controllers are probably safer anyway in terms of having a normal button input format.

Connecting multiple controllers can be tricky depending on what controllers you're using. Ideally, any controller has open-drain inputs on all the buttons, so connecting the data lines between all controllers should cause no issue and you should be able to switch a controller on/off by just...

Here are some digital potentiometers that work directly with buttons: https://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Digital-Potentiometer-ICs/_/N-4c498?P=1yzhhaq These seem to be all single potentiometers, but you will need two potentiometers for stereo audio. There are likely other chips like these...

I like it. I just wanted to mention that the Samsung drive which most of us use is pretty sensitive to heat. If you store it internally, you should probably keep it in the coolest space available.

The data switching idea is correct, but you'll need some way to switch power too. The PC will try to supply 5V into the port, so it would push current through the output of your internal 5V regulator if there isn't a switch somewhere in there.

Using 3DS joysticks on a different controller usually entails altering the range by using an ADC for input, modifying the value, and outputting it with a DAC. A microcontroller with a separate DAC is a good way to achieve that. When given a 3.3V input, 3DS joystick axes output from about 0.5V...

Yes, deadzone and sensitivity are adjustable. Calibration is available too so you can use 3DS joysticks.

Thanks!

Thanks. I won't be selling any, at least not right now. They may become available on the BB store for a little while.

Yes, it's wired to a Wii Remote expansion port. The on-board accelerometer mimics the exact same output as a Nunchuk.

I've been working hard on a new controller emulator and it's finally ready for release! Classic+ is a replacement for Classic Controller and Nunchuk controllers in the same vein as GC+. It comes with a Wii homebrew app called Classic+ Configurator that handles calibration, updating, and other...

I've tested it once and I think it worked, but I can't remember for sure. I think the connection test passed but the internet channel could not connect, which could have been for other reasons (I was tested in emuNAND).

Just wanted to note that you cannot since the USB data lines are only used for detecting charger sources.