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Definitely interested to see how this one goes! I've considered the latte panda for the same purpose a few times but haven't been able to bring myself to pull the trigger on it due to how expensive they are compared to other more powerful compact pc solutions. On the subject of the screen...

Yeah, I'm on a Ryzen 5 2600, 32g of ram with a GTX1660 Super and I still struggle to get a playable frame rate out of the first ratchet and Clank game in some places (metropolis, for example). There's definitely other games that run perfectly even on much lower end hardware, but not on a...

Happy to be proven wrong, but I'm going to need to see a video or something to believe it. I've done a fair bit of googling and I'm struggling to find even one example of someone trying it, let alone having it run with "playable" performance. If you haven't got a video feel free to send your...

I'm sorry, there's no way pi 4 can currently run Wii and PS2. I've seen some GameCube games that are maybe close to playable, but still far from perfect. Also retropie will absolutely run custom rom hacks. You may have to manually load cover art for the game if you want it, but for any console...

Heat sink done! This was definitely a fiddly little job to machine but this was the best option I could come up with for cooling in the space we have available. A little blower fan behind should provide more than enough cooling capacity as the cm4 apparently doesn't run all that hot.

It was just a place that's local to me that does anodising. Not much use to you unless you're in Australia but they are called A Grade Anodising. Nah it won't. I'm going to buy a sheet of thin double sided adhesive and use a knife on the CNC to cut them exactly to size so the colour and...

I've posted a few photos of this on the discord as I worked on it but figured I should post it here now its done! I decided to tackle this project to keep me entertained in my downtime whilst working on the retrolite and to help me progress with my PCB design skills. I designed most of the...

Cases are back from anodising and I am extremely happy with the finish! Next step is to sort out a vacuum chamber so I can re-do the button molds without bubbles and order some polyurethane resin so I can make some buttons that don't look so translucent. Still a fair list of things to do on...

Should have an update on the cases in the next day or two, so stay tuned! As for releasing the files for our project, we aren't sure what we will do yet. The entire project is designed around the abilities of the machinery that I have available to me. Stoned and I have both had a go at printing...

Actually there is on the full sized Pi4, its just the Compute module that doesn't have one.

I think the pi's 3.3v regulator can handle a couple of hundred milliamps. Have you considered one of the many digital audio options available for the pi? That's the direction I would go personally.

I'm not completely sure on the exact specs of the RVL PMS but assuming it can provide about 3 amps at 5v then yes it will be adequate for a pi4. There's no need for a 3.3v supply as the pi has its own built in 3.3v regulator for anything it needs. 10000mah would get you probably 5-6 hours of run...

We didn't end up using one as we wanted to be able to integrate the display controller into our own PCB as we didn't have room for another separate LCD controller PCB and couldn't find any reliable open source designs for controlling MIPI displays. So we went with a 40 pin TTL display with the...

Inside of #1 complete! Still got some holes to add in the top for power/volume buttons, headphone jack and cooling but that will be done with both halves assembled and mounted side on in my machine once the other half is ready. Might get some work done on the dpad and lower trigger molds this...

First bit of actual progress! Outside of the first of the two front housings completed. I'm going to run the second one today before I move onto the insides. Extremely happy with the results so far, this 6061 aluminium is much nicer to machine than the 5083 that I usually use. Can't wait to see...

Yeah we are getting there. Stoned and I both have some other stuff going on keeping us from working on this as much as we would like but progress is being made slowly. I did get a successful batch of buttons out of the mold but haven't had a chance to take any good photos yet. Still have to make...

Completed the first of the button molds last night. Came out pretty well, couple of little bubbles in some of the corners but not too bad considering I don't have a vacuum chamber yet. All of them should be easy enough to clean up with an exacto knife when the buttons come out of the molds...

That's odd, I'm sure I set it to "anyone with link" mode. I've updated the settings and tried again with a fresh link, hopefully that fixed it.

Sorry about the delay, busy week! Here's how mine is connected. Really the only ones you need to worry about are the Dpad connections and the analog pins for the joystick, the order for the rest of the buttons doesn't matter so long as they are on one of the pins listed. A = D1 B = D5 X = D2 Y...

No worries, here's a link to the latest version of my code: I've commented most of it so hopefully configuration should be relatively easy for you. I'll get it onto github eventually, but I want to include a keyboard/mouse mode too and haven't got around to adding that all in yet. Let me know...