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If you want opinions on your circuit you should probably post your board layout too.

You can also check out my repository thread in the 3d model section, I have a 3d model of the omgwtf trim you can use

The lower you set the resistance setting, the more accurate it will be. However, using the 200 setting can only measure up to 200ohms ect.. The cuts look very rough. You definitely need to sand more, and those resistance readings depend on what setting you were using (ohms, kohms?). Also what...

Personally I start at 200, move up to 400, then 800. You should finish with no lower than 600.

Please move this conversation to a new thread, as this is not relevant to this worklog.

You would have to design your own PCB. There are resources on this website to learn PCB design, and designing a board for PTH regulators is not hard - it simply requires a resistor and 1 (or 2) capacitors for each regulator. However a custom PCB is definitely not necessary unless you want your...

Most displays you buy will come with a driver board. Most people use car backup monitors from eBay.

Yes you need a driver board for the display. Also the driver board has to actually support composite video. Then you just solder a wire from the composite video pin on the console to the composite video in on the driver board. Then connect a gnd wire between both for the return path. You'll also...

Well if the regulator is outputting 1.3v that is definitely not within tolerance. You should go no higher than .05v above 1.15v. It's definitely not going to work if the 1.15v regulator isn't spot on. The fact that it's dropping so drastically means you should investigate whether there's any...

No the 1.15v reg dropping to 0.6v is certainly abnormal. I'n also assuming when you said the 1.15v reg outputs 1.47v normally you meant 1.147v. I can't really tell what's going on in the picture but you should investigate that regulator, maybe clean up the wiring a bit. You may also try...

The trimming guide has the information you're looking for. If you're unable to wire to the CM component, you can wire to the vias (shown in the guide). But you should definitely use some IPA on that board first. It's looking nasty! Some flux would probably help you out too. Be sure to use magnet...

It looks rough (needs a lot of sanding) but should get the job done. You didn't cut too much which is the important part.

Did you twist the data lines? Also what USB drive are you using?

Yes that's right

It won't work if you power it from 3.3v directly but almost all displays can be modified to run on 5 or 3.3v.

Cutting power to the system shouldn't damage the Bluetooth module.

https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/running-screens-off-lower-voltages.2256/#post-28206

Also let me suggest that you don't cut the pins all the way down to the board, leave some length on them so after you remove the port you can cleanly heat the through hole while holding on to the pins with tweezers and just pull them out

In that case, I tend to just cut them out with flush cutters. My strategy is as follows: Cut the support pins on the back and sides You should now be able to lift the shielding up, exposing the pins Cut as many pins as you can After enough pins are cut you should be able to just bend the port...

Why do you want to desolder the ports? The best way to use the GC ports is to just trim off the piece of the board that has the ports on them. If you do this you will preserve at minimum the GND connections and if you make the trim slightly larger you can preserve the 5v and 3.3v connections as...