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Yeah, I enabled it and flashing it seemed to work fine. I didn't have any issues with it being detected or flashing it as far as I know. Maybe I killed it, maybe there was a short somewhere I could not find, maybe the chip was junk from the get go. When I get my next order of parts in a few days...

OK, that's good to know. I removed the chip and put it into a GC+ board I had and it still didn't work right so I've called this one a wash and ordered more chips. I am just going to start over with one of my blank PCBs. A new PIC will be the first thing on it. What's the first thing you would...

It would appear I ordered and am trying to use the PIC18F25K22T-I/SS instead of the PIC18F25K22-I/SS Would that be the cause of my troubles? I would assume there is a difference, but I cannot find what the "T" stands for in the datasheet.

I've checked pin by pin, no shorts. How sensitive are these chips to heat? Possibly I got it too hot and damaged it internally?

Unfortunately, it does not. None of the button presses are registered, it acts as if no controller is connected. I did notice that when the chip is soldered to the board, the 3.3v coming from the controller port drops to 2~2.5v. Tested this on both a stock Gamecube and stock Wii as well. Don't...

Oh, okie doke. Should this work immediately after flashing, or do I need to use that homebrew app to set it up?

What else should I be doing? Device Erased... Programming... The following memory area(s) will be programmed: program memory: start address = 0x0, end address = 0x44ff configuration memory EEData memory Programming/Verify complete 2018-06-06 20:25:34 -0400 - Programming complete Pass Count: 7...

These guys are an incredibly small and flat dual tact button. Some quick Google-Fu makes it seem like they no longer exist. If you cannot locate a source, I have a few. I think I purchased 10 of them about two years ago not knowing just how small they would be and have yet to use them. They are...

That's awesome. I am going to do the same thing with all the buttons I designed and ordered from Shapeways so I don't have to keep doing that. I'm away for the weekend, but the first thing I was going to do when I got back was experiment with adding colors to my epoxy. You said acrylic paint...

Thanks! Those boards for the controller halves are significantly larger than I had hoped. But I'll probably snag one of those bad boys from ebay anyways. Thanks!

That's also way cool. Do you have any pictures of the inside? Or links to what they look like? I'm curious how big the (seemingly) split controller boards are. This might be a project I do some time in the future.

That's great! I'm glad someone else has done this. Thanks for showning me! That thing looks awesome.

Saw something called a Logitech Netplay on reddit this morning. Ebay seems to have them selling for $30-$60. Might be useful for someone looking to make a Portable PS2.

Thanks for the help! I was able to find these guys. But at the crazy low price (compared to Mouser) hopefully I don't get boned. We'll see in a few days. Thanks guys!

Does anyone know of any cheap surface mount capacitors that will work as the input and output ones for the PTH regs? Or if they even exist? I've whipped this up in like 20 minutes thinking it'd be easy, but am having trouble finding reasonably priced 100uf 16v-20v surface mount caps. They appear...

Maybe I'm an idiot, but I didn't see any option to send you my file through PM. So here you go, boss. P.S. Like I said in the PM, that red part is so you can easily subtract it from your model to get the perfect sized hole.

Yes, there will be batteries.

Noah PMed me with a similar solution as well. Thanks guys!!

The standard "OMGWTF Tim" that almost everyone on here uses. I'm not man enough to try any of the others yet. Quick question: Can I remove this guy without too much hassle? If I can remove it, I can relocate my batteries and knock about 7-8mm off my overall thickness. I'm almost done with the...