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I'm so fucking sad, I think I bricked my Wii in the home stretch. It won't turn on anymore, 1v resistance is at a whopping 59k instead of the 100s something it normally is, and when powered on, the pms only supplies 0.5v on the 1v rail. The compendium sais 1v basically only goes to the GPU, and...

Nice, I would also suggest to check for shorts before connecting the batteries. Checking the positive and negative wires for the batteries, and the different voltage outputs on the pms or from the wii to gnd, and make sure that the resistances are not 0, we still don't know that killed the...

Well, first you need to remove all the components you cut through, and you can remove the components on the outside of the inner cutlines (aka the components in the lower-left corner of this image). And you need to sand down the edges to avoid shorts, sand at an angle instead of flat with the...

Well my wii stopped booting properly after I added the mx, gc, u-amp, and updated the sd from the old bbloader to rvloader (yes I should have tested between each thing I added, but well I didn't) The screen turns on, and displays a black image, it does not say that there is "No signal" so the...

So soldered of most of the data lines, only missing the Bluetooth module, then simple things like speakers, rumble, and clock battery, and checking that everything works as intended, but I have to call it quits for now as it is 2am, and I don't want to do any (more) mistakes. Ended up...

Btw NCR is Panasonic batteries, and those green ones are quite commonly used and reliable, so it is probably not the battery quality that was the issue. I would still place my bet on a short unintentionally draining/destroying them. And the B variant as far as I know is button top with no...

0.68v sounds super super dead Batteries below 2.5v need special equipment to charge, and Lithium batteries don't like to be deep cycled, so even if you managed to charge them, they would likely be rather degraded if they managed to drop so low somehow (Maybe a short completely drained them, as...

Hey, I have the same board, and I successfully ran it in this configuration, so you can look at which components I have removed I have also labeled where you can input 5v (Red) and ground (Black). There is a lot of places where you can supply ground, just use a multimeter and check that there is...

So hello again ^^ Have been working on placing the daughter pcbs on top of my custom pcbs Mounting the old pcbs that don't have castellated edges was a real pain, eventually figured out a system that worked pretty well, but it was so frustrating, and I'm still not sure if everything on the gc2+...

So my pcbs arrived, and it felt awesome, they fit pretty much exactly as I wanted them to, and it just feels great seeing something I have put so much work into turning out so nice. (Sure there is no logic on them, and they don't really do anything interesting other than removing the need to...

I had a board that overheated come back to life when I let it rest for like a day, so trying again later might help... Did you check the resistance between the voltages before you wired it up? As to check that there are no shorts / that the sides have been sanded fine enough? Btw you only need...

Magnet wire is the wire used for electromagnets and such, thin flexible wire with only a thin enameled layer of insulation so they can be spoled close together https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/magnetic-wire/934?s=N4IgTCBcDaILYEMDmA7ApgFwAQHcCWATmgOQgC6AvkA

For power management and other secondary parts, I would recommend https://4layertech.com/ , and depending on your build if you want hdmi out or other more advanced features then I would also suggest looking at https://electron-shepherd.com/store/ And for batteries, looking at this guide...

Hmmm, are you sure about the 4 voltage pins? I see that you have connected pin 24 and 25 together, though you are not powering them directly based on your images. Pin 27 and 17 are connected on the internal 3.3v plane on the mx pcb, but 25 is not connected directly to the 3.3v plane, but rather...

I'm rather sure that you need a wii remote to interact with the stock wii os to install the RVLoader, so you can't just use a gc controller until after you have already softmodded it. Soldering a wire to the multi-out to get composite out is rather easy and should not present much issues as...

@MichaelEpicA Lol I didn't check the original date of the OP's post, it's old and irrelevant by a user that has not been active since February, please don't dig up and revive old threads, especially when you don't have anything relevant to contribute that will significantly help others. It's the...

Btw, you are in the wrong section, handheld is for gameboys and things that are already handhelds, you should be in the Wii section. Something like this one would be more efficient, smaller, and higher quality than the wii2hdmi https://electron-shepherd.com/analog2hdmi/ And here is the wii...

So I have continued on the pcbs learning more about kicad and how to work with schematics and so on. I have both sides and everything wires up, and the ground planes stitch together (all the random vias are to connect the different sections of the ground plane, ended up going with more...

So it has been a bit slow going as there is less low-hanging mindless fruit that I can do while doing other things. The main goal for this section was to do custom pcbs for the side portions, but I have only made the right side so far, though it is the most complicated one. It contains A, B, X...

You have the LDO still on, (the big chip between where you soldered 3.3v and 1.8v) The LDO supplies 1.8v itself from the 3.3v input, so either you have to remove the 1.8v wire you have added letting the LDO do its job, or you remove the LDO and supply the 1.8v from the PMS. You cant have both at...