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FYI, TPS62130 is what is used on the PMS (actually the slightly less efficient but slightly cheaper TLV variant). I am using the TPS62130 on my PMS. The reason the PTH are more expensive is because they are a preassembled module with a PMIC on it. The PCB, assembly, inductor, etc adds cost...

Yeah it's clearly a different color, but just FYI, the shell of the GameCube may be sun damaged so better to compare against the inside of the shell

I don't personally own one, but from pictures I would agree. Personally I think 7670C is closest, as do the ~5 people I surveyed.

Nice video, good job on the build!

Bout time somebody did it

Now's a good time for an update. I spent a long time testing the features of the PCBs, and I can happily say everything seems to work. The current test I'm running is doing the following: - System powers on, USB drive is connected to type-c port, can access from PC. - Push button, the STM32 is...

Aurelio has wiimote emulation with a GameCube controller in beta, you might want to look into that instead.

It's been done before, @JacksonS is the only one who has done it. It would require reverse engineering the wiimote and a microcontroller at the very least, which is a non-trivial task. If you're new to writing firmware I wouldn't recommend attempting it. Additionally, that display will not...

Assembled the PCBs and started testing. Stupidly didn't connect 3.3v to the programming header, so had to fix that. So the assembly is working well, I'm still working on testing all the features. I created a new test fixture which integrates some battery clips (and a quick disconnect switch)...

No, on the cap near the RAM, at the top. Measure 1.8v with a meter before you remove the LDO to make sure you understand the right spot.

You can supply it at the black 1.8v bulk cap (follow the trace for the LDO output, the large side)

If you remove it you must supply 1.8v externally. If you are using the RVL-PMS it has a 1.8v regulator.

I don't think anybody has measured it but I've seen it powered using 34awg magnet wire, so presumably quite low.

You can add the wifi module back, but it's very finicky (the wires must be very short with even length). Additionally, the Wii won't boot if the wifi relocation stops working. That's the reason most people don't do it.

In particular you want a USB-C PD capable charger that supports a 9V or 12V profile, the one linked in the guide is a good choice. Anker makes good chargers.

Nice work, and very cool that you did your research on impedance. Another note to add is whenever you change layers on an impedance controlled signal you should place symmetric ground vias next to the signal vias to preserve integrity when traveling along the z-axis. Board is looking great!

Yeah it's possible, but you would need some sort of analog to digital conversation since the RPi doesn't support analog input gpio. Which is why others are suggesting it's easier to use something like a micro controller which will support analog inputs.

Have you tried shorting reset to ground to boot to priiloader?

PCBs and stencils came in today from JLC. Also waiting on the standoffs from eBay. The standoffs were particularly hard to find because m2 6.5mm standoffs are not standard at all. Luckily, I was able to find some m2 6mm standoffs and m2 0.5mm washers on eBay. I got 40 of both for like $3...

Neat, it would be cool if you attached some photos of what they look like populated or connected to other peripherals