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Also know that Wii games are rather finnicky.. Only certain drives are known to work with Wii games.

Make sure you tightly twist the wires. The idea behind this is that if they are tightly twisted any noise will be applied equally to both lines so the difference will be 0. You might try using a drill to twist some magnet wire to get it very tight.

You can wire reset to gnd and see if you boot to priiloader.

For example, for the 1.15v line try to be in the 33.8k to 27.9k range. As you can see, the resistance matters more for higher voltages. You may have to use a resistor in parallel or series, but you shouldn't need more than 2 with a standard resistor kit like E12.

Check the data sheet for the regulator. There's is a formula (also a precomputed table) to calculate the output voltage based on resistance. Just keep the output voltage within 0.05v of what's required. Given the option, go too high instead of too low since voltage will drop under load.

You are correct, solder the data line from the wii to the data line on the GC+. Even a Wii without GC ports still has GC port data lines, you can solder to the vias shown in the trimming guide. As for the buttons, you just need a tact switch that connects the button the ground when pressed.

Many people simply do just that: a 3d printed piece with holes for the for the legs of the switches. That way you can get the alignment right without having to worry about a custom PCB. I would suggest you put a small dab of epoxy or super glue under the button to keep it in place if you go that...

A 4 layer portable might draw around 2A at 5v, so if you can charge the batteries and play it will be very slow.

It's easy to implement USB C. However, without a "very custom solution" you will only be able to achieve 5v 3a, meaning you cannot utilize USB C's power delivery feature that allows for higher voltages/current for chargers that support it.

Sounds like whatever you're connecting it to has a short.

These things are so rare that I don't think it's worth destroying them for a portable. If I wanted to proceed with a build of this form factor, I would cut a regular GC controller in half and 3d print an extended middle section and frankencase them together. That way you get the benefits of a 3d...

No there's no way if you use the stock regulators. You will have to use a 4s pack (because the voltage will drop as the batteries become discharged). Most screens drop their input voltage to 5v so you can just input the 14.8v directly, but you may want to check the the ratings for the regulator...

I'm not sure what the switch is for? I doubt it's a power switch, more likely a region switch mod? Anyway it's hard to assess damage but if I were you I would test the outputs on the regulator board separately and see if it still works, if it does then there's no harm in just trying to boot the...

Went ahead and trimmed the Wii today. I use a slightly modified LMAO trim to retain some screwposts and things like the input pads to the preamp and the USB vias. Here's some pics of the trim if anyone else wants to try it. Before the trim: After: Success! (Not pictured: 1 hour of...

Relocated the NAND today, using @Aurelio 's flex board. Even with the flex board it's still no easy feat, but much better than wiring both sides by hand. Here are some pics before I trim. I also took 3 hours of video consisting of the disassembly, u10 relocation, ldo removal, and NAND relocation...

You would need a Wii that can boot, it doesn't have to have a working disk drive. You can boot games off USB if you install the Homebrew channel. The Wii can play GameCube games natively so it will be better than any emulator. It is also capable of running some other older game console emulators...

Have you considered a Wii?

Black RVL-CPU-60 LU212404559

Many of you may remember that I started my second portable awhile back. Well I decided to drop that project and start again from the bottom up this year. I threw out the designs for all the PCBs, I'm starting with a new Wii, and redesigning everything from the bottom up. I'm taking the...

What I mean is download the source and open it in KiCAD, then you can inspect the board layout to find the dimensions.