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3.3v

I've had the data line be like 6 inches with no problem

The 1.15v line often will cause your multimeter to beep for continuity because the resistance is around 30 ohms. This is normal, just make sure it's not less than 10 or so. As for the 1v line, if it is in fact bridged to ground, disconnect it from the board and check if the short is on the board...

You can check my (or Gman's) Wii Micro. It's a fairly simple beginner project. https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/jeffs-wii-micro.2288/

https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?forums/guide-hub.89/ All of our guides are available here. The Wii trimming guide in particular is available in the Wii subcategory. However I encourage you to please read all of the guides there before asking further questions.

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Just don't place it on a sheet of metal?

Most displays just step the voltage down from 12v to 5v so it will probably just work on 7.4v. If it doesn't, depending on the drive board, it might be possible to run on 3.3v with some modifications.

Please edit your post instead of double posting unless you have something of significant value to add.

No it's not really possible. The essential parts of the board are pretty spread out and not feasible to relocate (many of them are BGAs). Plus power consumption is considerably higher than the Wii.

Looks like you used magnet wire for the Bluetooth, use it for U10 too. That looks pretty bad. Also give it a scrub with IPA. Also where are your feedback resistors for the regulators? Anyway keep it up!

You can cut the condescending nonsense off. Trimesh clearly has experience and is providing useful information. He also said he was testing them under a 2A load and monitoring temps. Having a post count title on the forums doesn't give you the privilege to shut down any conversation that...

I would recommend connecting 3.3v to the board then connecting the bluetooth 3.3v to a 3.3v point on the board.

It's fine to cut those off

Just cut the port off from the bottom

To add on to what Cheese said, absolutely test your bluetooth and U10 before trimming. If you can exit postloader to the Wii system menu successfully then you will be good to go.

At least for the GC+ and PMS, you'd be better off waiting until the store restocks.

Yes, you need to separate the two pins on the chip. You need to bridge the two pads where the U9 chip used to be. 38 awg is just fine for the u10. It's just a digital signal, so there's virtually no current.

You could use a T Flip Flop, basically the logic is that only the edge of the signal would cause a change in state of the output, so pressing the volume down would cause a change of state, and the state wouldn't change again until you press the button again. You can use that to drive the gate of...

As it turns out there are rules. This was posted 2 years ago, don't bump old threads.