Tschicki
.
Hey there!
Recently I got to try out the Nintendo Switch 2 and I was impressed by the new analog sticks. Compared to the Switch 1 sticks, these feature slightly larger stick caps (17.5mm vs. 15mm) and their movement feels smoother.
I’m considering to use the Switch 2 analog sticks for other things and couldn’t find any information online, so I’m documenting my findings here. The stock sicks are unfortunately still prone to drifting, but you can already find Hall-Effect variants on Aliexpress for about 5 bucks a piece. These were my main focus, but most of the findings should also apply to the original sticks.
First Impressions
Fixing the Sticks
The biggest flaw IMO is how hard the Hall Effect variants are to press – but luckily this can be fixed!
The sticks can be opened by straightening the four tabs. Using a pair of fine sidecutters is the easiest way from my experience. But take care to not break the tabs, otherwise the stick may not stay closed properly once reassembled.
Inside you see the flex PCB with the two sensors on it, above is a white plastic pin and behind it is a small spring. To reduce the force, I shortened the spring by 1 to 2mm (best to start small and try, you can always cut more). I also wiped off some of the lubricant from the center of the metal backplate, it made the analog stick feel a bit “sticky”. I reassembled the analog stick and afterwards it’s quite usable.
Pinout and Connector
Unfortunately the pinout doesn't match the Nintendo Switch 1 analog stick pinout. Here is the new pinout:
The pin count, pitch, thickness and width of the flex luckily haven’t changed, which means the Switch 2 sticks will fit the same FFC connectors as the Switch 1 sticks. I personally like to use the connector ‘5034800540’ from Molex (top & bottom contact).
Operating Voltage
I don’t know at which voltage the new Joycons operate, but my guess is 1.8V (can someone confrm?). For the resistive (original) sticks 1.8V vs 3.3V shouldn’t matter much, but I had Hall Effect sticks in the past that did not tolerate 3.3V. That’s why I tried these sticks with both 1.8V and 3.3V - both worked, no smoke!
But beware that this might be different for other suppliers or batches and may change over time. Safest would probably be to run them at 1.8V until we know more. I tried to contact one of the suppliers regarding the operating voltage, but I haven’t heard back unfortunately. A search of the identifier engraved on the sensors ('3R5D1') also didn't give any results.
Mechanical Design
Some general observations:
I spent an evening to draw a little 3D model of the new Switch 2 stick (Aliexpress variant). While I’m sure it’s not perfect, it should provide a good basis for integrating them in a design. I designed it so that the cover is a separate body, in case it needs to be removed.
Once installed it looks quiet nice:
Attached you find the 3D model of the stick and the little test-print I did to verify the fitment.
TODO:
Recently I got to try out the Nintendo Switch 2 and I was impressed by the new analog sticks. Compared to the Switch 1 sticks, these feature slightly larger stick caps (17.5mm vs. 15mm) and their movement feels smoother.
I’m considering to use the Switch 2 analog sticks for other things and couldn’t find any information online, so I’m documenting my findings here. The stock sicks are unfortunately still prone to drifting, but you can already find Hall-Effect variants on Aliexpress for about 5 bucks a piece. These were my main focus, but most of the findings should also apply to the original sticks.
First Impressions
- The build quality of the aftermarket Hall Effect variants looks adequate, and to my surprise they were not a scam, they really contain Hall sensors.
- The Hall Effect sticks require more force to press and are much stiffer than the original Switch 2 sticks.
Fixing the Sticks
The biggest flaw IMO is how hard the Hall Effect variants are to press – but luckily this can be fixed!
The sticks can be opened by straightening the four tabs. Using a pair of fine sidecutters is the easiest way from my experience. But take care to not break the tabs, otherwise the stick may not stay closed properly once reassembled.
Inside you see the flex PCB with the two sensors on it, above is a white plastic pin and behind it is a small spring. To reduce the force, I shortened the spring by 1 to 2mm (best to start small and try, you can always cut more). I also wiped off some of the lubricant from the center of the metal backplate, it made the analog stick feel a bit “sticky”. I reassembled the analog stick and afterwards it’s quite usable.
Pinout and Connector
Unfortunately the pinout doesn't match the Nintendo Switch 1 analog stick pinout. Here is the new pinout:
| Pin (left to right) | Signal |
| 1 | Y Axis |
| 2 | Button (to GND) |
| 3 | GND |
| 4 | VCC |
| 5 | X Axis |
The pin count, pitch, thickness and width of the flex luckily haven’t changed, which means the Switch 2 sticks will fit the same FFC connectors as the Switch 1 sticks. I personally like to use the connector ‘5034800540’ from Molex (top & bottom contact).
Operating Voltage
I don’t know at which voltage the new Joycons operate, but my guess is 1.8V (can someone confrm?). For the resistive (original) sticks 1.8V vs 3.3V shouldn’t matter much, but I had Hall Effect sticks in the past that did not tolerate 3.3V. That’s why I tried these sticks with both 1.8V and 3.3V - both worked, no smoke!
But beware that this might be different for other suppliers or batches and may change over time. Safest would probably be to run them at 1.8V until we know more. I tried to contact one of the suppliers regarding the operating voltage, but I haven’t heard back unfortunately. A search of the identifier engraved on the sensors ('3R5D1') also didn't give any results.
Mechanical Design
Some general observations:
- When removing the colored cover, the base housing of the Switch 2 sticks is actually slightly smaller than the Switch 1 analog sticks (see picture)
- The overall height and the distance from stick cap to top surface of the housing is pretty much identical between Switch 1 and Switch 2 sticks (see picture)
I spent an evening to draw a little 3D model of the new Switch 2 stick (Aliexpress variant). While I’m sure it’s not perfect, it should provide a good basis for integrating them in a design. I designed it so that the cover is a separate body, in case it needs to be removed.
Once installed it looks quiet nice:
Attached you find the 3D model of the stick and the little test-print I did to verify the fitment.
TODO:
- Find out more about the operating voltage
- Find out whether they also play nice when built into a gamepad (deadzone, etc...)
