Worklog Wii WVI V.2

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Hello Bitbuilt Community!

Just a few days ago I completed my first project here and was pretty happy with the results. It came out better than I thought to be honest but I know I can do better. Not only that but I wanted a better screen as well as some addition features and just a cleaner build overall. As I have explained before, I am currently not interested in a portable as transmitting video wirelessly fits for me better.

I messed around with some CAD software for a few hours and considered 3D printing, but after various issues I had with CAD as well as not very much knowledge and not having immediate access the a 3D printer... frankencasing FTW!

Here is a very amateur sketch of the design I'm going for:


This time around, here are the specs this project will entail:

1) 5" 800x480 Display with Menu Buttons
2) 3DS Sliders
3) Front Facing Speakers
4) Panasonic 3400mah batteries
5) Battery LED Meter
6) GC+ For Gamecube Games
7) Wiimote with IR Blaster
8) Toggle Wiimote to GC+ by a switch

That's all I can think of currently. Will post an update when parts arrive most likely next week.

Question: What kind of ABS Cement do you guys recommend?

I used super glue to fuse the frankencase pieces together in my last project and left little holes between the joints. Wanted a more smooth fusion of the plastic pieces together and thought ABS cement would be best.
 
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I used bondo to make mine look smooth. It is fairly simple to use and sands down nicely.

I used hot glue on the inside, but the bondo is on the outside and it turned out really nice. Good luck on v2
 

Stitches

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I use a few spots of superglue to hold parts in place, then use epoxy to glue it firmly into place. After a few days, it's never going to move. Then you sand it down, use a body filler like Bondo to fill in the gaps, sand more, and repeat until satisfied.
 

fibbef

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Take chunks of discarded ABS plastic from dismantled consoles, controllers, etc. Place in a large glass jar. Pour in pure acetone (found near paint thinners in stores that sell paint). Stir + wait about a day = ABS cement/goop. If it's too runny it just means there's too much acetone. No worries; the acetone will evaporate and harden up your mixture.

This process is cheap and a good way to recycle a modder's growing mound of old console shells. Plus when all the acetone evaporates, you're left with a 100% plastic-on-plastic bond, which is pretty dang rigid.

You'll still need to sand it and smooth with Bondo to get a more polished finish.
 

Stitches

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Take chunks of discarded ABS plastic from dismantled consoles, controllers, etc. Place in a large glass jar. Pour in pure acetone (found near paint thinners in stores that sell paint). Stir + wait about a day = ABS cement/goop. If it's too runny it just means there's too much acetone. No worries; the acetone will evaporate and harden up your mixture.

This process is cheap and a good way to recycle a modder's growing mound of old console shells. Plus when all the acetone evaporates, you're left with a 100% plastic-on-plastic bond, which is pretty dang rigid.

You'll still need to sand it and smooth with Bondo to get a more polished finish.
Just don't breathe the acetone fumes if you can avoid it.
 
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Thank you guys for the feedback! I'm thinking the acetone route to melt/fuse the plastic as one piece and use bond to fill in the small imperfections.

How long does it take for the homemade ABS cement to dry once applied to plastic pieces?
 

fibbef

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Just don't breathe the acetone fumes if you can avoid it.
Probably a good idea to keep your eyes away from the fumes as well. In general, treat the stuff very carefully.
How long does it take for the homemade ABS cement to dry once applied to plastic pieces?
I usually let it sit overnight. A couple of really nice things about using melted ABS:
-As it begins to dry (usually within 10-15 minutes depending on how runny your mixture starts) It starts to hold in place but is still workable. So if a frankencased piece starts to fall out of alignment, you still have time to set it in place.
-Acetone stinks to high heaven, but the odor dissipates pretty quickly. It's kind of like rubbing alcohol in that respect; once it's gone it's gone. Not like the smell of Bondo, which sticks around for a day or so.
 

Shank

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@martinwels

You can use a converter like DeoNaught posted to connect the GC+ to the wii remote to be used as a classic controller for Nintendon't and other various games that use the classic controller. I personally just bought this one but haven't had a chance to actually test it yet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Nintendo-Gamecube-to-Wii-Wii-U-Controller-Adapter-Mayflash-GC-Wii/281483161084?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Trust me, you don't want to do that. Just run the GC+ through the GC controller port. Almost every single thing that can be done with a classic controller can be done with a stock gamecube controller.
 

Shank

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lmao WAT
Pls explain how 2
He said he wanted to wire up the GC controller through an adapter that makes it behave like a classic controller and put that inside the portable.
I'm suggesting running the gc+ through the GC controller port's data line, like everybody does on every portable.
 

fibbef

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The problem is that he's not making a portable - he's making a controller with a built-in display that connects to the Wii. The video is wireless so he needs a wireless controller too. Hence going the GC+ to wiimote route.
 

Shank

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I am currently not interested in a portable as transmitting video wirelessly fits for me better.
I guess I overlooked this... Maybe using an internal wavebird controller might be a better way to go about doing it so you don't have to deal with with the nightmare of wiring an internal wii remote is a better way to go about it?
 

fibbef

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When I was planning a similar project, I was thinking of just using Wii controls; wiimote + nunchuck. Wiimote controls would be right of the screen, nunchuck analog on the left along with another d-pad rotated 90 degrees for NES-style play. C, Z, and B buttons would be on the shoulders. It would have looked similar to but better than this:
mockup.png

The A, +, -, and home buttons not shown because you get the idea. This would have worked for most Wii games. Of course there were a lot of kinks to work out, like for games that made you switch between holding the wiimote sideways vs pointing it at the screen and actually recognized the orientation. Also, this was before I found out about PortablizeMii, so GC support wasn't a concern at the time.

Now if/when I get around to making a Wii portable, I would be content with syncing up a separate Wiimote for playing anything other than Mario Kart.
 
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The problem is that he's not making a portable - he's making a controller with a built-in display that connects to the Wii. The video is wireless so he needs a wireless controller too. Hence going the GC+ to wiimote route.
Yes, thank you for clearing that up. I might eventually do a portable however every time I have tried to trim the wii and custom regs etc, I have always had issues. Therefor, I am going this route as it works well for me and works excellent on my last one.

@fibbef

Gotchu, I light the idea of your portable setup! I still have to figure out how to wire the controls to the wiimote AND the GC+ without having the button press simultaneously press a button on the GC+ and the wiimote... I was thinking of just cutting off ground from the GC+ or something because this WVI I want to be able to play Wii games and GC. I'm even integrating the IR sensor as well so I can point the WVI at the sensor bar and all. Might even include a nunchuck and all as well, but haven't gotten that far in planning yet.

I guess I overlooked this... Maybe using an internal wavebird controller might be a better way to go about doing it so you don't have to deal with with the nightmare of wiring an internal wii remote is a better way to go about it?
I thought about that as well, however the internals are pretty bulky of the wavebird compared to the wiimote and honestly don't want to trim anything and have issues and all. Also wanted to be able to play wii games as well and not just gc games. The wiimote is just 6 wires, 2 wires for power and 4 wires for the adapter/classic controller connector and this setup works great in my other WVI and was really simple to wire! You're probably right about the adapter, but I already bought it and thought I'd give it a go. The board of the adapter is pretty small too!

I'll keep you guys updated.
Currently started case work and have all parts except for display that I'm waiting for in the mail. This time around, I will show more internal pics and want it to be much more tidy inside as well.

Thanks guys!
 
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UPDATE:

Annnnnnd... the journey begins.



Made a couple mistakes on the speaker holes so patched them up and decided to move the closer to the screen. I used a sheet of plastic and cut 6 individual pieces and fused them together to make my own custom sized case. Needs a lot of work, but off to a good start! Still waiting on the screen in the mail but everything else came.

QUESTION:

My GC+ seems to be giving me issues. I wired both 3ds sticks to the GC+ as I heard wiring just one may give you issues, and the joysticks are acting very jittery and glitchy and spasm like as if I'm sliding the sliders in every direction all at once. Anyone know how to fix that?
 

cheese

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My GC+ seems to be giving me issues. I wired both 3ds sticks to the GC+ as I heard wiring just one may give you issues, and the joysticks are acting very jittery and glitchy and spasm like as if I'm sliding the sliders in every direction all at once. Anyone know how to fix that?
Double check your wiring to make sure none of the wires are broken. You may just need to configure the gc+ with the configuration utility.
 
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Well the front half was complete with all components installed, then was stepped on and destroyed haha. Will have to start from scratch again but was coming along nicely. Will be a while for an update, but here is how the case came out after paint and before being destroyed...

 
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