Solved Wii Trim - Issue with 1.8v and 3.3v not outputting

Shock

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The resistances look alright. Assuming nothing else is wrong with the Wii, it *should* work with all proper voltages supplied.
Ok, hopefully that’ll work out then when I can get a different PMS. Thanks again so much for all of your help, I really appreciate you taking the time to help out a random stranger online!
 

Shock

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No worries at all. It's what we're here for!
So something weird happened today. I was checking over all of my stuff again and I measured the voltage on my PMS-2 with everything detached just as it was the other day, and I was suddenly getting 3.3 volts from the 3.3v line despite the measurements from the other day.

It was reading all of the correct voltages on all of my lines from the PMS-2 so I wired everything up again but it still wouldn’t fully turn on. However, now I am getting a signal from 1.8v where I wasn’t before but am still not getting 3.3v when the Wii is on.

I’m not really sure what has changed from the last time I tested it. It sat for 2 days without me touching it at all but that’s about it.
 

Stitches

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That suggests that there may have been a 3.3v to GND short on the PMS that you cleared, which I'd wager was these little solder bubbles here.
1722311610491.png


As for why the 3.3v line reads 0v when the Wii is connected, I'm not sure. That would usually be evidence of a 3.3v to GND short on the Wii, but your resistance table indicates normal resistance to GND
 

Shock

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That suggests that there may have been a 3.3v to GND short on the PMS that you cleared, which I'd wager was these little solder bubbles here.
View attachment 34607

As for why the 3.3v line reads 0v when the Wii is connected, I'm not sure. That would usually be evidence of a 3.3v to GND short on the Wii, but your resistance table indicates normal resistance to GND
That would make a lot of sense, I did reflow the solder there to clean things up when I disconnected everything but I wonder why it didn’t immediately fix the issue.

Strange about the Wii too. I did manage to get a second Wii for cheap just in case so maybe I’ll just do another trim and see if that one works out.

I guess since the resistances are fine, it’s probably not this, but does it matter that I got solder inside of the via circled? I cleaned up the solder on the pad that 3.3v is connected to on the Wii as well so the section with the arrow is not touching either.
 

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Stitches

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That would make a lot of sense, I did reflow the solder there to clean things up when I disconnected everything but I wonder why it didn’t immediately fix the issue.

Strange about the Wii too. I did manage to get a second Wii for cheap just in case so maybe I’ll just do another trim and see if that one works out.

I guess since the resistances are fine, it’s probably not this, but does it matter that I got solder inside of the via circled? I cleaned up the solder on the pad that 3.3v is connected to on the Wii as well so the section with the arrow is not touching either.
Nah, those vias are directly connected to that pad anyway. The solder getting on them is not an issue.
 

Shock

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Nah, those vias are directly connected to that pad anyway. The solder getting on them is not an issue.
Ok, so I’m finally making some headway here. I went back and sanded along the 3.3v area of my Wii a bit more and I’m getting all of the correct voltages now with the Wii powered on. I also re-checked the PMS-2 and am still getting the right voltages from that when isolated from the Wii now as well.

However, I’m still seeing nothing on my tv, which leads me to believe it’s a video issue since I tested voltage for U10 with the Wii powered on and am getting 3.3v there.

When I check the resistance for composite video when the Wii is not connected to the tv, I am only measuring about 75 ohms. This is what the wiring looks like right now.
 

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75 ohms to GND is correct for video lines. I'd start with shortening your composite wire as much as you can. The GND twist you have going there doesn't actually provide much shielding and so it could be an EMI problem
 

Shock

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75 ohms to GND is correct for video lines. I'd start with shortening your composite wire as much as you can. The GND twist you have going there doesn't actually provide much shielding and so it could be an EMI problem
I shortened the twisted wire to about 2 inches and it still didn’t output any video, so I tried the shielded video cable (~3 inches for that one) and that also didn’t work unfortunately.
 

Shock

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75 ohms to GND is correct for video lines. I'd start with shortening your composite wire as much as you can. The GND twist you have going there doesn't actually provide much shielding and so it could be an EMI problem
This might be a bad idea, but if I’ve confirmed that the PMS, Wii, and U10 are all getting the voltages that they should and that it’s just a video issue, would it be worth trying to wire up the display since the portable isn’t going to use composite video anyways?
 

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You can try that. I'd call it unlikely, but it is *possible* that you'll get a picture in VGA mode
 

Shock

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You can try that. I'd call it unlikely, but it is *possible* that you'll get a picture in VGA mode
At this point I just kind of don’t know what else to try. My other Wii comes in tomorrow so maybe I’ll just try trimming that first and see what happens.
 

Shock

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You can try that. I'd call it unlikely, but it is *possible* that you'll get a picture in VGA mode
Well, I finally got the original trim working and the issue was one of the dumbest things I could have imagined. Turns out it actually WAS booting, but my Wii video cable (from the tv to the port) was bad. Literally all I did was straighten out the cable and I saw the RV loader text come up.

I only discovered that was the issue because I was getting the 2nd Wii ready and the video signal started to go out, and I tugged on the cable a little and the video cleared up. So stupid, but I’m glad it’s working haha. Thanks again for all of the help!
 
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Stitches

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Excellent! I'll add checking the video cable to the troubleshooting list
 
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