Discussion in 'The Cutting Edge' started by JacksonS, May 29, 2017.
My custom PCB (it's earlier in the worklog) is based on the Pluto IIx-HDMI board, which is described on the GCVideo-DVI GitHub page. And my LCD driver is based on this board, which can take the HDMI input.
My batteries are Panasonic 18650 3400 mAh cells, which are in the BOM. There are pink Samsung 18650 3500 mAh cells which are better, but when I bought some I was sent defective ones and nearly not refunded.
Here's a nearly hour-long gameplay demo showing most of the different controller configurations in action. There are timestamps in the description to navigate to specific games.
Hi was wondering where you got the fan from? Thx
It is a B3510X05B 35x35x10mm fan. It runs very loud at 5V, so I use 3.3V
Hi, am wondering if this fan would be a good substitute for the one you used (difficult to get for me):
Is it the rpm which dictates how effective it will be at extracting heat as the rpm on your fan is listed as 7000, while this one ive linked is 9500.
That fan looks fine, but it's not the same type of fan. That is an axial fan, so it takes air in the back and blows it out the front. The one I listed is a blower fan, which takes air in the back and blows it out the side. Blower fans are preferred for thinner cooling setups, but they're harder to find. Here is a similar but not quite as good blower fan.
Thanks very much I will possibly get the delta, It has three leads though, what is the third one? I have a cooling set up similar to yours, so hoping this fan can do the trick. What are the signs that your Wii portable isn't being effectively cooled?
Generally, red is power, black is ground and the other colour is for controlling the fan speed. Without a control signal, the fan will just run at full speed on its own.
You can buy one with only red and black wires. Otherwise, what Stitches said.
I suppose best thing is an infrared thermometer that will tell you if your temperature is within a safe range. An infrared camera would also help to see what parts are getting hot, but that's not cheap. I've never used either of these and relied on how hot it feels to the touch. If you can feel a sizable amount of warm air leaving the system and nothing feels abnormally hot, you're probably good.
Did you use NCR 18650B batteries ?
Yep, and those are 3400 mAh. Samsung makes a 3500 mAh verison.
i NEED it
Hi, I would like to buy this console, can I?
Hey i'm probably really late to reply but could you explain how you did the 3 controllers in 1 to a newbie like me?
He (@JacksonS ) explained everything in the worklogs of this and his previous portable.
Here is the link to the worklog of the first Wii SP:
The way he did it in the SP 2.0 is described in this worklog. You can find it on page one:
Oh so I see he's using a 3-way switch for his Wii Sp and using another switch for the classic controller, but what are they connected to, is he using a gc+ board or is he using 3 individual boards that were cut from the controllers, it's that I can't get pinned into my head.
Again, he posted everything in these two worklogs. Please read them fully before asking these questions again.
Anyways: on this one he used original controller boards, so NO gc+. He used an original classic controller pcb and wiimore pcb. He also used some 15 pin switching ICs to control the io going to the different pcbs. He connected a 3 way switch to a pic microcontroller (I hope im correct here) which he used to control the SN74CBT16245 ics. He designed custom boards for everything to make it easier.
Sorry I'm new to this so I'm probably looking at it and reading over things. I'll try getting a better understanding of things so It doesn't happen again.
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