Solved Wii motherboard not booting anymore/clicking sound

[nastys]

Hi everyone! I've been building my first Wii laptop for the past 6 months or so. It was almost done but then it suddenly stopped working. It was working fine until 2 days ago, but then I brought it to a party and when I tried to power it on, the LED stayed red and I could hear a "clicking" sound (~3 times/second while holding the POWER button). The "clicking" probably came from this coil here (I can even feel it with my finger):
View attachment 2958
At first I thought that's what was causing the issue (considering it accidentaly bumped against a plastic part of the laptop case) but then I tried swapping it with another one and it made no difference at all.
Without the coil, if I press the POWER button, the green LED lights up but the PSU cuts the power immediately. If I bypass the coil (by bridging the 2 ends), the clicking sound remains. Of course, I have disconnected everything from the motherboard.
View attachment 2959 View attachment 2960
Pressing the POWER button on the Wiimote does nothing at all, while pressing the EJECT button it "clicks" a bit faster.

The motherboard (6-layer, 3rd revision) is untrimmed and I'm using the stock PSU and regulators. Priiloader is installed, but not the non-WiFi IOSes, which means I can't use the OM6 trim anyway.

I cannot afford another Wii or motherboard, nor 3 Texas Instruments PTH08080 regulators.
I need this laptop for a school project, which is why it's urgent (although I could just present something else if I can't fix it in time).

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Shank]

Ive had this issue before. Unfortunately, your regs are fried. The regulators are not well understood, so there is no known way to replace it. Other than the motherboard, how far along is the project?

 

[nastys]

Ive had this issue before. Unfortunately, your regs are fried. The regulators are not well understood, so there is no known way to replace it. Other than the motherboard, how far along is the project?

So even if I used custom regulators (or supplied the required power somehow) it would still not work?

The laptop itself is pretty much finished, except for the fan and the case which needs some more cuts and something to cover the big hole where the keyboard would normally be. I'll post some pictures once it's done.

By the way, I just bought a used Wii (I found a pretty decent deal), but I would still like to fix this one.

 

[Shank]

Running custom regulators will most likely fix it, but id say it would be better to just start with a new Wii.

 

[nastys]

Running custom regulators will most likely fix it, but id say it would be better to just start with a new Wii.

Of course I'm going to use another Wii, but if custom regs would fix the old one I think I could use it for a smaller project. The problem is that TI regulators are way too expensive.

By the way, if anyone knows a cheaper alternative to those TI regs, please let me know.

 

[Shank]

Unfortunately, parts are expensive. We are working on more efficient solutions, like the powermii lite, but they aren't going to be any less expensive

 

[nastys]

Unfortunately, parts are expensive. We are working on more efficient solutions, like the powermii lite, but they aren't going to be any less expensive

I'll be looking forward to it

By the way, here are some pictures of the laptop:
View attachment 2965View attachment 2966View attachment 2967View attachment 2968View attachment 2970
It has 1 external USB port (the other one is currently unused) and 2 audio ports. The sensor bar is modded so that it can be powered via the USB port on the controller board. It still needs a fan, as well as something to cover the huge hole where the keyboard would normally be. The DC port used to be near the external USB port (before the other motherboard stopped working), but this time I left it on the motherboard itself, just in case its relocation was what burned the regulators on the other board.

This is the motherboard:
View attachment 2971View attachment 2973
I think I accidentally removed and damaged some resistors near C43 and C167, but it seems to work fine regardless. Should I replace them anyway?
I soldered a Wii2HDMI directly onto the AV port pins (I could've used GCVideo instead but it's too expensive). I'm also using the WiFi module from the other Wii (since the module from this one had some thermal paste on it, meaning it probably tends to get hotter).

As for the software, I installed BootMii as boot2, made a NAND backup, updated to 4.3, and installed the no-WiFi IOSes using Cheese Installer. HBC still doesn't want to boot without the WiFi module, but that's not a problem since I wanted WiFi anyway (emuNAND has stock, WiFi IOSes). I'm basically using Priiloader and HBC instead of postLoader, since it never worked really well with neek2o for me. I use nswitch to boot the emuNAND and I just press 1 on the Wiimote to select the game I want to play. Both Nintendont and SNEEK are set to light the blue LED on disc/DI activity.