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Worklog Wii motherboard interface PCB / WII Portable (still unnamed)

Aurelio

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You sure do know everything. After thinking about it, I would put the leds closer together, ratjer then far apart. Does that make sense?
If you put the two LEDs close together the wiimote will confuse them as a single point and it won't work. You need them to be far from each other (roughly 10cm).
 

ruumoo

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If you put the two LEDs close together the wiimote will confuse them as a single point and it won't work. You need them to be far from each other (roughly 10cm).
Oh, ok, I thought the distance had an effect on the sensibility
 

ruumoo

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After fighting the Autodesk cloud system as well as Eagle for about 2h, I finally switched to 2 seperate boards and started blocking out the 3D layout in Fusion360.
The Big red cylinders are 18650 cells and the darker green board in between the mother- and daughterboard is the LCD controller.
Tn the top view you can see on the right side, between mobo and dabo(?), the pth08080's fit in there perfectly


 

ruumoo

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This is the plan for the heatsink
it's about 50x56x20 with an inset Noctua NF-A410
Do you think this is enough cooling capacity?
 

Nold

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Damn this project looks dope man!

The Heatsink should be faily enough, if you have a good airflow & fan running at 5v or even 3.3v..

Also let me know how you like blender for 3D design..
 

ruumoo

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Damn this project looks dope man!

The Heatsink should be faily enough, if you have a good airflow & fan running at 5v or even 3.3v..

Also let me know how you like blender for 3D design..
Thanks,
I'm using a Noctua Fan, they make the best fans in the industry. It's the 5V version, and you can feed it a pmw control signal (4pin pc fan) which the internal controller uses to regulate the speed.
Blender is really really awesome. But you have to remember, It's "just" a poligon/surface modelling program. For anything exact, you need something like Fusion360 or Sketchup.
I use blender for more organic or not really exact definable models.
Blender is actually one of my other hobbies, you can find my stuff on instagram: blenderfarm
 

Aurelio

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Add a small drop of epoxy between the connector and the PCB when soldering it or it wouldn't hold very well
 

ruumoo

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Finally the long awaited LCD showed up. Now I can double check the measurements from the datasheet and can find out what's needed to run it.

It's a nice thin 5" 800x400 tft from Eastrising Technology. The controller is also nice and small.
After some quick probing i think I can run it compleatly of 3.3V.

For Testing I quickly had to get my trimmed Wii running, as I didn't have any other A/V component device anymore (A problem I never thought I would have). But after a few secinds of panic, after nothing happened on powerup and the sudden realisation, that i forgot the U10 Wire, everything worked great

Dont worry, the dirt and scratches are only on the protection film. In reality everything is nice and crisp.
 

ruumoo

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I tested by putting 12v into it's normal input and tested that pin, it's definitely 3.3v. Like Remo said the components probably can also take 5v
I would have been surprises, if they made the same controller board with a 5V and a 3.3V regulator
 

ruumoo

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Threw this together last night, after thinking about my design for a bit.
I will probably move to a single PCB, with the screen controller as a seperate, as it only needs a few connections.

 
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