Question Wii is not booting

[jefflongo]

So I've been working on a 4 layer board and I cannot get it to boot. After troubleshooting, I can't seem to find a problem. Turning the console on results in a black screen, occasionally flickering to the blue no signal screen for a split second. My trim looks fine and I've only wired up the essentials (USB, screen, regs). Here's what I've troubleshooted so far.

Software

• Installed Nowifi PM first and foremost. Tested to make sure it worked.

Regulators

• Tested outputs before applying to system. Receiving a nice, stable output for each.
• Wired up to board and ensured there were no shorts on any of the lines.
• Tested the voltages on the board when the console is turned on, they look fine.
• Yes there are all in the right spots.

U10

• Made sure the trace was cut by scraping further down the line and making sure there was no continuity.
• I DID NOT test to make sure this worked before trimming, didn't know that was an option.
• U10 was NOT outputting 3.3v on the top right pin, proceeded to desolder the U10 and manually touch a 32g magnet wire from the 3.3v line to the data line to the GPU to see if that would cause a boot after turning on, did nothing.
• Resoldered the data line to GPU to make sure it was properly attached.

USB

• Checked continuity from via to pin on the USB module.
• Tried both USB ports to make sure I was using the right one.
• Waited 30s after booting to see if anything would come up.
• Wired reset to GND to see if it would boot to priiloader.

Pics:

 

[Stitches]

So I've been working on a 4 layer board and I cannot get it to boot. After troubleshooting, I can't seem to find a problem. Turning the console on results in a black screen, occasionally flickering to the blue no signal screen for a split second. My trim looks fine and I've only wired up the essentials (USB, screen, regs). Here's what I've troubleshooted so far.

Software

• Installed Nowifi PM first and foremost. Tested to make sure it worked.

Regulators

• Tested outputs before applying to system. Receiving a nice, stable output for each.
• Wired up to board and ensured there were no shorts on any of the lines.
• Tested the voltages on the board when the console is turned on, they look fine.
• Yes there are all in the right spots.

U10

• Made sure the trace was cut by scraping further down the line and making sure there was no continuity.
• I DID NOT test to make sure this worked before trimming, didn't know that was an option.
• U10 was NOT outputting 3.3v on the top right pin, proceeded to desolder the U10 and manually touch a 32g magnet wire from the 3.3v line to the data line to the GPU to see if that would cause a boot after turning on, did nothing.
• Resoldered the data line to GPU to make sure it was properly attached.

USB

• Checked continuity from via to pin on the USB module.
• Tried both USB ports to make sure I was using the right one.
• Waited 30s after booting to see if anything would come up.
• Wired reset to GND to see if it would boot to priiloader.

Pics:
View attachment 3194 View attachment 3195 View attachment 3196

Is that reset wire soldered to ground, or loose? I can't tell.

 

[jefflongo]

Is that reset wire soldered to ground, or loose? I can't tell.

To ground

 

[Stitches]

To ground

Are you doing that to get to Priiloader? Because grounding that counts as holding the reset button. It's supposed to be connected to a tact switch for normal use.

 

[jefflongo]

Are you doing that to get to Priiloader? Because grounding that counts as holding the reset button. It's supposed to be connected to a tact switch for normal use.

Yes, the goal was to boot to priiloader to determine whether or not it is a USB issue.

 

[cheese]

Check the output of U10 when you turn the Wii on. Is it 3.3ish volts, or <1v? This sounds like a problem I had where my U10 was touching an internal line in the wii and it wouldn't boot. Lifting the output pin off the board solved my issue.

 

[jefflongo]

It wasn't outputting voltage when I checked but to troubleshoot this I removed U10 and touched the 3.3v line to the U10 dataline after turning the console on to stimulate U10s function and it did nothing.

 

[ShockSlayer]

U10 might be kill. You can always try U9, they're the same. There are a couple spots that looks like they could use some cleanup, I'm also not too sure about the condition of that capacitor on the edge of the board next to the NAND.

 

[jefflongo]

U10 might be kill. You can always try U9, they're the same. There are a couple spots that looks like they could use some cleanup, I'm also not too sure about the condition of that capacitor on the edge of the board next to the NAND.

I was considering that, I did salvage U9 just in case so I can always transplant that. However, if that was the case touching 3.3v to the data line after turning the Wii on should have booted the Wii after I removed it.

In terms of cleanup, I'm assuming you're referring the areas that were cut through, namely the corners. I can try to clean those up.

I know it's close but I believe that cap by the NAND is still on there. Is it important at all? I could remove it.

 

[ShockSlayer]

It can be removed, if it's damaged then it's better safe than sorry.

 

[jefflongo]

It can be removed, if it's damaged then it's better safe than sorry.

I suppose I can try that. I don't have any shorts on the 3.3v line so I don't think it will do anything but why not