Discussion Where do I begin? (NOW FLIP'S FIRST WORKLOG)

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Worklog: Day 1:
Not much changed. After SO MUCH finagling, I was able to get the Noldendo case imported into my CAD software so I can grab basic measurements *shoutout @Y2K you the man*
I decided to extend the case by about 10 mm, likely will be 15, to accommodate the 4 layer Wii's weirdly laid out Nand chip. I've gotten mounts made, and an attempted IO panel. I say attempted because, OnShape, despite it's ease of use, is a PAIN IN THE ASS when shelling, so much so I need to start the I.O from scratch, ALL BECAUSE i traced it on the original part. Plus, the measurements got grayed out to be almost invisible to see.
1711936081919.png

Regardless, tomorrow I have my engineering class, so hopefully I can get some assistance. The actual trimming and testing part of this project is on hold until I can get the right regulators to power this bad boy. I know it's a bit more costly, but I'll likely buy @CrazyGadget 's PMS board on his Etsy store. Thankfully, my internship boss will probably let me borrow his super neato magnifico hot air station and magnifying scope to help me do the U10 relocation, as the chip is a bit tiny for me to do on my own. *my hand eye coordination is sub-par*
Thank you guys for all of your help, and I'll see you next time I update this.
 
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Worklog: Day 1:
Not much changed. After SO MUCH finagling, I was able to get the Noldendo case imported into my CAD software so I can grab basic measurements *shoutout @Y2K you the man*
I decided to extend the case by about 10 mm, likely will be 15, to accommodate the 4 layer Wii's weirdly laid out Nand chip. I've gotten mounts made, and an attempted IO panel. I say attempted because, OnShape, despite it's ease of use, is a PAIN IN THE ASS when shelling, so much so I need to start the I.O from scratch, ALL BECAUSE i traced it on the original part. Plus, the measurements got grayed out to be almost invisible to see.View attachment 32426
Regardless, tomorrow I have my engineering class, so hopefully I can get some assistance. The actual trimming and testing part of this project is on hold until I can get the right regulators to power this bad boy. I know it's a bit more costly, but I'll likely buy @CrazyGadget 's PMS board on his Etsy store. Thankfully, my internship boss will probably let me borrow his super neato magnifico hot air station and magnifying scope to help me do the U10 relocation, as the chip is a bit tiny for me to do on my own. *my hand eye coordination is sub-par*
Thank you guys for all of your help, and I'll see you next time I update this.
Good work so far! This will be a really cool project to open source (I’m sure you’re not the first guy who’s wanted to make a 4 layer Noldendo). One piece of advice: do the U10 relocation BEFORE trimming. It allows you to limit potential problems post trimming if you run into any issues because you can at least confirm that that is a non-issue beforehand.
 
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Good work so far! This will be a really cool project to open source (I’m sure you’re not the first guy who’s wanted to make a 4 layer Noldendo). One piece of advice: do the U10 relocation BEFORE trimming. It allows you to limit potential problems post-trimming if you run into any issues because you can at least confirm that that is a non-issue beforehand.
I'll make sure to do that ASAP. I can do the relocation and power it on normally to test it right? If so, I'll try and bang it out later today.
 
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Can't wait to see the trim!

I'll make sure to do that ASAP. I can do the relocation and power it on normally to test it right? If so, I'll try and bang it out later today.
Also U10 relo is not needed if you're using 4layer power management. if you're using custom regulators then it is.
 
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Can't wait to see the trim!



Also U10 relo is not needed if you're using 4layer power management. if you're using custom regulators then it is.
I'm still thinking on the best move. I will still likely use CrazyGadget's power board. However, I have considered the 4LT PMS board, due to it's power button and USB c options. Which, would require MORE redesigning of the case. Plus, the power button would be on the back, I'd likely have to figure out a USB bypass, etc, etc. But, good idea.
 
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Can't wait to see the trim!



Also U10 relo is not needed if you're using 4layer power management. if you're using custom regulators then it is.
...so remember how I said I was gonna try and avoid that? Well...
the u10 chip broke. and the u9. uh... whoops? posting update 2 soon.
 
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UPDATE 2:

Project is at an official hault. Incase nobody knows: SMD soldering is a LOT FUCKING harder than it looks. You'd THINK it would be easy, but NOPE! That shit is HARD! How do I know this? Simple, I spent an hour getting the U10 chip off. On and off attempts, mixed with a 20oz bottle of Dr. Pepper. Right as I slid it off the pads, thinking my Harbor Freight special soldering iron did it. NOPE! Two pads? Lifted. One leg? Absolutely GONE! But hey, there's a U9! NOPE! No pads were lifted, but the EXACT SAME LEG FELL OFF! I am beyond disappointed in myself.
1712021682545.png

That is the U10. Rest in piece, little buddy.
But at my lowest, Etsy just had to absolutely punch me in the wound, uppercut me into a knockout....
1712021799505.png

Etsy, a place I've bought from PLENTY of times, absolutely struck me low. *peep the baby spencer pfp btw*
So, what does this mean? Absolutely nothing. I will finish this project if it means I am dead and buried in the deep recesses of hell with all of the abandoned Wii disc drives. But, thanks to quite literally everybody in the BitBuilt Discord, I have a new plan of attack: Practice a bit, and then order this board. Why? BECAUSE @CrazyGadget, BEING THE ABSOLUTE MADMAN HE IS PROMISED ME THIS: "actual quote from the discord too"
"If you place an order, I'll put like 5 U10s in the package
Hehe."

So, once again, thank you to CrazyGadget for being like the actual SAVIOUR of this project *and everybody else ofc you guys have been so helpful its crazy* I will definitely still be working on the case, as it's gonna take quite a bit of time to do. Unfortunately, as per usual, my engineering teacher is being anything BUT helpful. Thank you all!
edit: pardon the swearing, the U10 unlocked some typa rage inside of me. I'll be better tomorrow.

*pro tip: don't inhale leaded solder fumes for an hour straight. it burns ur nostrils. smells nice though. :) *
 
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UPDATE 2:

Project is at an official hault. Incase nobody knows: SMD soldering is a LOT FUCKING harder than it looks. You'd THINK it would be easy, but NOPE! That shit is HARD! How do I know this? Simple, I spent an hour getting the U10 chip off. On and off attempts, mixed with a 20oz bottle of Dr. Pepper. Right as I slid it off the pads, thinking my Harbor Freight special soldering iron did it. NOPE! Two pads? Lifted. One leg? Absolutely GONE! But hey, there's a U9! NOPE! No pads were lifted, but the EXACT SAME LEG FELL OFF! I am beyond disappointed in myself.
View attachment 32462
That is the U10. Rest in piece, little buddy.
But at my lowest, Etsy just had to absolutely punch me in the wound, uppercut me into a knockout....
View attachment 32463
Etsy, a place I've bought from PLENTY of times, absolutely struck me low. *peep the baby spencer pfp btw*
So, what does this mean? Absolutely nothing. I will finish this project if it means I am dead and buried in the deep recesses of hell with all of the abandoned Wii disc drives. But, thanks to quite literally everybody in the BitBuilt Discord, I have a new plan of attack: Practice a bit, and then order this board. Why? BECAUSE @CrazyGadget, BEING THE ABSOLUTE MADMAN HE IS PROMISED ME THIS: "actual quote from the discord too"
"If you place an order, I'll put like 5 U10s in the package
Hehe."

So, once again, thank you to CrazyGadget for being like the actual SAVIOUR of this project *and everybody else ofc you guys have been so helpful its crazy* I will definitely still be working on the case, as it's gonna take quite a bit of time to do. Unfortunately, as per usual, my engineering teacher is being anything BUT helpful. Thank you all!
*pro tip: don't inhale leaded solder fumes for an hour straight. it burns ur nostrils. smells nice though. :) *
Wow.

I COMPLETELY AGREE WITH YOU. SMD IS SO HARD!

Rage aside, keep at it. mistakes and failures are what make us human and what help us learn.
 
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Wow.

I COMPLETELY AGREE WITH YOU. SMD IS SO HARD!

Rage aside, keep at it. mistakes and failures are what make us human and what help us learn.
Thank you for the motivation. Shout out to CrazyGadget for predicting this and telling me to do a Noldendo before I do an ASHIDA.
 
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UPDATE:

OnShape threw a fit so I had to start over. Despite many pros using Solidworks, I am no pro. I, am stupid. Thankfully, the case is coming together very quickly now.
1712106770274.png

Tomorrow, I will begin putting in I.O holes. The Gamecube ports SHOULD be easy. The back, probably not as much. Shoutout to @Wrental_ for the motivation during the case being made today. Can't wait for you to publish the project you showed me as well!

-Flip
 
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UPDATE:

OnShape threw a fit so I had to start over. Despite many pros using Solidworks, I am no pro. I, am stupid. Thankfully, the case is coming together very quickly now.
View attachment 32482
Tomorrow, I will begin putting in I.O holes. The Gamecube ports SHOULD be easy. The back, probably not as much. Shoutout to @Wrental_ for the motivation during the case being made today. Can't wait for you to publish the project you showed me as well!

-Flip
When you finish this you should publish the files in the cutting edge along with a rough guide.

Good job!
 
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Hey guys! No major update for today. I got quite busy and only added the Gamecube ports to the shell, as well as fixed an error in standoff calculations. However, I do have a question I need answered. The original Noldendo doesn't have support for an SD card reader. I, an avid Homebrewer, would love to have an SD card inside of here. Would you guys like to see it added? It would be a fun challenge for me to really spice up the original Noldendo, and help me fulfill my Homebrew deeds. *plus, it would allow me to actually keep BootMii and Priiloader, which is essential for my unlucky ass :skull:*
It would locate on the side similar to other Wii Micros of the past.
 
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Update idk ive lost count:
WE DID IT! The I.O is DONE!!!
1712281211258.png

1712281228065.png

*S/O to Jefflongo for his Wii Micro trim model, which gave me the measurements I needed to pull off the AV port, and some other basic measurements.*
Heres the list of to-do's for the case:
Design internal holders for MX Chip, Clock battery, and Bluetooth module.
Create a hole and bracket for sync and reset button
Make a test print, double check measurements.
POSSIBLY add an SD card slot.
Thank you all again!
 
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Good job man! are you going to share the STL's?
 

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Very nice! If you want some help testing fitment tolerances, lemme know. I have several FDM and SLA printers at my disposal
 
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Very nice! If you want some help testing fitment tolerances, lemme know. I have several FDM and SLA printers at my disposal
I might have to take you up on that offer...
Anyways, this is post-earthquake Flip speaking: My owed money should be here by Monday... What does this mean you may be asking?
A: I will be ordering the PMS board by @CrazyGadget who has STILL offered to include some U10 chips.
B: I will *likely* be ordering the 3D printer I have been looking at. I am gonna get plenty of hate for this, but I will be buying an Ender 3 V3 SE. Yes, I could theoretically wait until May to buy the A1 from Bambu. Yes, I could look into resin printing. But, I like hardships, and I've looked into this model a LOT. It's a good price-to-performance ratio that I need for myself. I'm not gonna be needing the highest-quality prints right now. Maybe I will once I do college *this forum has single-handedly made me look towards electrical engineering* but otherwise, it's not necessary. Plus, while I would have enough money for the A1 out the gecko, it would mean I can't go to prom with this girl I've been talking to for a while. Shells will be uploaded to Thingiverse, and a guide will be posted.
TL;DR: Should be able to work on the Wii trim soon, get shells tested, and looking forward to prom.

edit: Still haven't decided on the SD card slot, I need your opinions.
 
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I might have to take you up on that offer...
Anyways, this is post-earthquake Flip speaking: My owed money should be here by Monday... What does this mean you may be asking?
A: I will be ordering the PMS board by @CrazyGadget who has STILL offered to include some U10 chips.
B: I will *likely* be ordering the 3D printer I have been looking at. I am gonna get plenty of hate for this, but I will be buying an Ender 3 V3 SE. Yes, I could theoretically wait until May to buy the A1 from Bambu. Yes, I could look into resin printing. But, I like hardships, and I've looked into this model a LOT. It's a good price-to-performance ratio that I need for myself. I'm not gonna be needing the highest-quality prints right now. Maybe I will once I do college *this forum has single-handedly made me look towards electrical engineering* but otherwise, it's not necessary. Plus, while I would have enough money for the A1 out the gecko, it would mean I can't go to prom with this girl I've been talking to for a while. Shells will be uploaded to Thingiverse, and a guide will be posted.
TL;DR: Should be able to work on the Wii trim soon, get shells tested, and looking forward to prom.

edit: Still haven't decided on the SD card slot, I need your opinions.
Ender 3 V3 SE is amazing. I got one mid January and have been enjoying it greatly.

You shouldn't include an SD card slot. It isn't even supported by RVLoader.
 
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Ender 3 V3 SE is amazing. I got one mid January and have been enjoying it greatly.

You shouldn't include an SD card slot. It isn't even supported by RVLoader.
The issue is, while not supported by RVLoader, is the default for most Homebrew apps. I, am an AVID Homebrew enjoyer. I could make two shell variants, one with or without the slot.... similar to how I could provide a shell for a barrel jack instead of USB C.... now im over complicating it.

OH YEAH! If anyone has recommendations for a USB C breakout board, please feel free to let me know now.
 
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