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Worklog Trimming the Dreamcast Even Further Beyond

YveltalGriffin

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This thread will be a technical deep dive into my journey to trim the Sega Dreamcast even further beyond. I’ve been working on this project for over 5 years, mostly in private.

It's been very challenging, and a huge learning experience for me. The many lessons I've learned from Dreamcast trim development are what made the LOLWUT trim go so smoothly! So, after taking a long break from trim dev, I'm finally ready to circle back and wrap this project up.

I regret doing everything behind closed doors, so documenting everything after the fact is my way to make up for it. Luckily, I took lots of photos along the way. I hope other people can learn from my mistakes!

2017 - 2018
Shank spearheaded an R&D effort to improve Dreamcast portablizing in 2017. There was also a Discord channel where folks traded notes. I was very excited about it, but lacked the skills or knowledge to contribute in a meaningful way. Nold made some discoveries and shared them in this thread. Not long after, he posted The Definitive DC Trimming Guide, which removes the audio DAC to save a bit of space at the top of the board.

2019

To learn more about the Dreamcast VA1 motherboard, I decided to sand it and scan the two internal layers in May 2019. In the long run, these scans have not proven very useful, since the internal power/gnd planes are so simple. But it was still a great learning experience, and it was the reason I bought my Epson Perfection v500, which has proven to be an absolute workhorse.

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I desperately wanted to make a sleek landscape Dreamcast portable, but the existing trim was simply too wide. Even with a 5.6" 4:3 LCD, the portable would have huge bezels. The trim line's limiting factor was clearly the audio SDRAM, which sticks out past everything else.

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As you can see in Rodrigo's block diagram, the audio SDRAM has a 16-bit, 66MHz interface. I didn't understand the implications of this at the time, and tried to relocate the SDRAM by hand.

(not sure what I was going for with this color scheme...)
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The free-floating deadbugged SDRAM worked, but of course the flattened out version did not. 66MHz SDRAM is right at the edge of what's deadbuggable, and all the overlapping wires were a worst case scenario for signal integrity. At the time I didn't fully understand these things, and was mostly just frustrated.

2020
I became interested in the VA2.1 motherboard for a time in 2020, since it has a very different AICA-SDRAM layout. I thought maybe this motherboard revision would be narrower than a VA1 if the BIOS were relocated, but that turned out to be false after comparing my scans with VA2.1 photos Shank sent me.

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2021
Between 2019 and 2021, I designed a couple flex PCBs, including a 40p-to-54p LCD adapter for UltraWii and AVEflex. After some mild success relocating things with FPCs, I had an epiphany about the Dreamcast SDRAM issue!

This is how the Holly (Dreamcast GPU) connects to the AICA (Yamaha sound processor). The Holly-AICA interface (AKA the G2 bus) is only 25MHz, while the AICA-SDRAM interface is way faster (66MHz).

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Before, I had tried and failed to relocate the SDRAM while leaving the AICA in place. But this was the wrong approach. The correct approach was to relocate the entire AICA+SDRAM subsystem, which would be much easier thanks to the G2 bus' lower speed.

I prototyped this using a daughterboard cut from a VA2.1. Because the SDRAM lives directly beneath the AICA on VA2.1s, you can cut both of them out on a single daughterboard.

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My (sloppy) Dreamcast compendium using RDC's freshly-released scans was key to making this happen.

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To avoid soldering directly to the AICA's legs, I removed the SDRAM and soldered magnet wires to the G2 bus vias underneath it, then resoldered the SDRAM on top of the wires.

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...and it worked! This was a very, very exciting moment for me.

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Some technical details for those interested:
  • The AICA isn't just a sound chip. It also contains some registers for video settings. (Sega loves to do weird shit like this)
  • Therefore, if the AICA isn't connected properly, it's not just audio that breaks, but video too! Great for debugging.
  • But as I would later learn, getting video actually isn't enough to confirm that the entire AICA subsystem is functioning... :oops:
You can already see my Sharpie marks, ideating a brand new extreme trim. Little did I know that getting anywhere close to that trim would take another 2+ years... The next post will cover the absolutely brutal AICAflex journey.
 

YveltalGriffin

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2021 (continued)

After proving out the manual AICA relocation, I started designing "AICAflex" to relocate the AICA and SDRAM. ElectronAsh seemed to have had some success replacing the AICA SDRAM with a BGA part, so I decided to go that route to save space.

This was before KiCAD had the ability to import reference images; not that it mattered, since I was still using EAGLE at the time. My workflow for designing flexes was a hot mess.

I captured a mobo scan with a ruler in frame, then opened the scan in a photo viewer and used a combination of "Peek Through" and "AlwaysOnTopMaker" to make the scan into an overlay on my monitor. I had to zoom and pan the scan manually to get it scaled properly to the EAGLE layout editor. And if I panned or zoomed in EAGLE, the alignment would getescrewed up. This was a complete nightmare.

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Also, the motherboard still had components on it when I scanned it. This causes perspective shift, and screws up flex alignment. AVEflex only had a simple 1mm-pitch grid of vias, and I hadn't even used scans to create it-- so I had no idea what I was doing was suboptimal.

Side note: It's possible to design a flex with perfect alignment even without importing an image into KiCAD. The workflow is something like this:
  • Capture a motherboard scan at a known DPI (1200 or 2400). The motherboard must be stripped of components so it lies flush with the glass.
  • Make a note of the image's largest dimension (6000px for a 4000x6000 PNG, for example) and convert that to inches (6000/2400DPI = 2.5in)
  • Create a sketch in Fusion 360. Draw a square with side length = the scan's largest dimension
  • Import the scan as a canvas and select the square. The image will be perfectly scaled
  • Now you can place markers or sketch elements on vias or areas of interest, and export that as a DXF. EAGLE and KiCAD both support DXF import.
Had I known this back then, I could've saved myself a lot of pain. Oh well.

At the time, I believed FPCs shouldn't have ground planes, and routed GND with traces. However, this isn't true, especially for static flexes (ones that don't bend during use). Even many dynamic flexes in industry use solid GND planes, although they have rolled annealed copper instead of cheap electrodeposited copper.

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I ordered the first AICAflex revision from GoldPhoenix in Feburary 2021. It was designed with 5/5mil trace/space.

Potentially removing the AICA and audio SDRAM opened up a lot of possibilities for trimming the motherboard smaller. This was the trim I had in mind at the time. But how to accomplish this? Half of the BIOS pads are being cut off and the BIOS is strictly necessary for the system to run.

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After poring over the Dreamcast service manuals and my board scans, I noticed that the flash, BIOS, and GDROM all sit on the G1 bus. While they have different chip select signals, they all share the same address and data lines. This was the next key breakthrough.

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After some compendium work, I designed gdemuFlex, which piggybacks on the Dreamcast flash memory to connect to the G1 bus. The via alignment for this one was done with the same godawful PeekThrough approach.

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It has a BGA NOR flash that replaces the stock Dreamcast BIOS. It also has a 50-pin ZIF to connect to a GDEMU. All of the G1 signals can be grabbed from the DC flash or nearby vias/pads, except for G1_ROMCS (the BIOS chip select) which needs a magnet wire jumper to a nearby trace.

Couple notes on the design of this one:
  • It was designed with 2.5/2.5mil trace/space (PCBWay only)
  • The 0.5mm pitch castellations for piggybacking onto the flash IC proved problematic to manufacture and solder
  • The ZIF needed more mechanical support. The free-floating isolated mechanical pads delaminated instantly on the first rev
This design was ordered in March, I think.

The third and final flex was DVEflex. The DVE is the Dreamcast's Digital Video Encoder, which takes serialized digital video and outputs composite video, RGB, VGA, etc.

To minimize the trim outline, I had the idea to make a flex that wrapped around the board edge, soldering to the original DVE digital video pads while relocating the DVE IC to the back of the board.

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Here are some early paper dolls for AICAflex and DVEflex.

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Despite all of the massive design flaws lurking in this trio of flexes, I felt very proud of them! Welcome to the peak of Mt. Stupid! :D

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Then the flexes arrived and I did some initial test fits.

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I could already tell fitment wasn't perfect for any of the flexes, but wasn't sure how to improve things, so it didn't bother me as much as it should have. :P

One thing I forgot to mention is the ZIF on gdemuFlex. It's 50 pins and meant to connect directly to a GDEMU ODE. I designed this very simple FPC at the same time as gdemuFlex, which adapts the GDEMU connector to an FFC. This one was open sourced recently since it can be used with things besides gdemuFlex.

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This adapter was how I learned that Molex Premoflex FFCs are extremely stiff, and not suitable for most portablizing applications. Go for AWM 20624 ones instead.

Because I was busy with my university capstone project, UltraWii (which I honestly consider my real capstone project lol) and MaplePad, it took me a while to start assembling the trio of DC flexes.

This was the first gdemuFlex assembly attempt, in my Controleo3 oven. The flex sorta curled up, which shorted all the BGA balls. This made me realize that delicate FPCs like this need a gentler reflow profile. I also discovered an error in the design so this rev was garbage anyway.

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The BGA NOR flash had to be programmed with a Dreamcast BIOS before soldering. I chose japanese-cake 1.031 and flashed it with an RT809H programmer and a BGA48 socket. Expensive but good tools. This flashing process has remained the same for all gdemuFlex revs since.

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A few months later, I had moved into a new apartment and had some bandwidth to try gdemuFlex again. At this point I was on the third or fourth revision of the FPC. Each revision cost ~$150 from PCBWay. :oops:

This time my solder paste stenciling and component placement was on point and the FPC reflowed properly without any shorts beneath the BGA.

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This revision had some fixes for the ZIF (mechanical pads connected to hatched GND) and the castellations were improved (two vias and longer pads). But it still had GND traces instead of a pour and lacked stiffener beneath the BGA BIOS.

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Due to my shoddy alignment work in EAGLE, soldering this thing was a serious pain in the ass. We forget how good we have it with modern, properly designed FPCs like nandFlex, FujiFlex and cafeflex. No matter how I swiveled or nudged gdemuFlex, some vias were aligned and others weren't. I basically had to flood the vias with solder and pray the joint could bridge the gaps beneath the flex.

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But, at the end of the day, it worked! The Dreamcast booted from the BGA BIOS no problem.


This post has gotten very long, so I'll pick up with the AICAflex woes in the next one. Lemme just say that gdemuFlex was the easy part. o.O
 
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I’ve never played the Dreamcast nor know anything about it, but this worklog is an absolute THRILL to read! I love all the R&D advancements!
 

Fly_5

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I think the work you are doing is impressive, I am also porting a dreamcast and all your information is very valuable, I already had a design of the housing for the board cut we all know but I will follow your project in case it progresses, in that case I would redesign the housing. Congrats on your work I will keep an eye on it.
 

YveltalGriffin

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Appreciate the enthusiasm, guys!

After spending a lot of time combing through old photos and DMs with Wesk and Colton, I've pieced together the AICAflex saga. Thank goodness I messaged folks about the trials and tribulations, because I had forgotten almost all of the nitty gritty details.

2021 (continued)
In November of 2021, I assembled the first AICAflex revision.

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8 months had passed since I designed and ordered AICAflex, so I was reacquainting myself with the design during assembly and testing.

I was mildly concerned about the BGA SDRAM even at this early stage, because it looked a little smushed down and I couldn't see the solder balls clearly.

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But installation went fairly smoothly, and the Dreamcast booted properly with video!!! A great sign!

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Note: My worries here about the G2 bus were misplaced. If any of the G2 lines are swapped or disconnected, the AICA doesn't work at all, and you won't get video.

The BIOS and OpenMenu worked fine, albeit without sound! But when loading a game, the console would either freeze on a loading screen, or this scary-looking error message would appear:

AICADRV ERR -256

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The only mentions of this error on the Internet were an ancient Reicast bug report and a Japanese forum post from someone with a faulty console (?)

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Apparently, AICADRV.bin is a sound driver / AICA firmware some Dreamcast games use. AICADRV throwing an error clearly meant something was wrong with the AICA subsystem, but I didn't know what.

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I looked through the DC service manual some more looking for AICAflex schematic errors, and noticed that I had omitted the 33-ohm series resistors on the control lines. However, this shouldn't have caused a catastrophic failure like the AICA not working at all.

(snip from RDC's schematic, no copyright issues)
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Facepalm-- the RAM's clock enable line wasn't strapped properly. So the audio SDRAM wasn't even enabled! Time for rev2.

By December, the rev2 flex had arrived from GoldPhoenix! Their FPC Pool was a lifesaver for rapid prototyping.

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This new revision didn't work AT ALL! The Dreamcast wouldn't even load into the BIOS.

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I was concerned that the Dreamcast was fried, but after removing the AICAflex and resoldering the AICA back onto the motherboard, it booted normally.

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I was half right in these messages. While it's true that the Dreamcast vias are really freaking tough to solder to, the BGA SDRAM was 100% shorted underneath as well. These issues compound one another, since both cause the AICA to misbehave. I also caught another amateur hour layout mistake, which was a floating GND ball on the SDRAM. So a third board rev was needed.

In the meantime, I did some more experiments with the AICA to understand it better. I handwired a RAM-less AICAflex to rule out any via soldering issues, and the system displayed video and booted to the BIOS normally.

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After hotairing the BGA SDRAM onto the flex, the AICA no longer worked and the system did not display video. So I was pretty sure at this point that the BGA SDRAM was shorting. First mention of stiffener!!!!

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2022

I spent January getting rumble working in MaplePad. Near the end of the month I ordered the third AICAflex rev.

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Finally came to my senses and added some GND pours, four pullup resistors which had been missing before (had that been causing problems? no idea!) and a 0.2mm polyimide stiffener beneath the SDRAM.

GoldPhoenix is fuckin' badass and shipped the flexes in only 3 days! They also sent twice as many flexes as I ordered.

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For some reason, they also didn't gang together the mask openings under the BGA SDRAM this time (new on top, old on bottom), possibly because of the GND pour. This was a huge improvement and definitely helped with solderability.

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On every future AICAflex order, I added an annotated version of this image to the order notes, politely requesting that the BGA soldermask openings NOT be ganged together, just like on the top flex. Communication with the fabhouse is super important, but it's tough when you don't know what to ask for, or what might cause problems! This project was an excellent crash course in FPC DFM and design for assembly.

The BGA SDRAM solder balls looked a lot better on this rev. Not perfect, but the balls were visibly round, and the RAM was sitting a lot higher and flatter.
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My test motherboard was getting pretty worse for wear at this point and the annular rings on the back were falling apart. So I "wove" the FPC onto some magnet wire soldered to the front side of the mobo.

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These pics showcase the alignment issues quite well. :P

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The system booted, but unfortunately there was no sound and the AICADRV errors / freezing were still present. Based on all my previous testing, this meant the audio SDRAM was STILL not connected properly. :(

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In hindsight, my overconfidence about the RAM being "soldered perfectly" is very funny.

Out of desperation, I tried adding a grounded aluminum foil shield between the AICAflex and motherboard in case it was an interference issue. This was a waste of time and did absolutely nothing.

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After DM'ing ElectronAsh on Twitter, he caught ANOTHER AICAflex schematic issue: the address/bank select pins were not connected properly.

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Basically, A11 on the original SDRAM is actually a bank select pin (sometimes considered an additional address bit) but I hadn't treated it that way on AICAflex. Ash also suggested re-adding the 33-ohm series resistors on the control lines to be safe, but I didn't do it because it would've ripped up a lot of the SDRAM layout.

Revision... 4?
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Huge mistake alert! Thinking I was clever, I removed the bottom layer mask openings from the quick-solder points. My rationale was that the solder joint should form between the FPC via barrel and top side annular ring, and that any exposed annular ring on the bottom layer could potentially short against other traces or vias.

...turns out removing the soldermask openings on the bottom was a terrible idea-- when I got the flexes, the quick solder points were completely tented and blocked off on the underside. So despite taking my time prepping the vias for a normal install, I had to handwire this rev.


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It STILL didn't work! Games still froze or showed the AICADRV error.

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These repeated failures forced me to take a step back and reassess my UNGA BUNGA caveman approach. The next post will contain the details of that backtracking, and the satisfying conclusion to the AICAflex saga!
 
Last edited:

YveltalGriffin

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2022 - 2023 (continued)

After four failed AICAflex revisions and hundreds of bucks down the drain, I decided to backtrack a bit and ensure that the AICA + audio SDRAM could be relocated successfully. This was necessary work because in my early tests, I had only confirmed that the DC booted, and hadn't tried games, which is where the AICADRV / freezing issues crop up.

Thankfully, I still had the old VA2.1 AICA daughterboard.

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And it worked! No freezing, and audio came through loud and clear. This proved once and for all that relocating the AICA + SDRAM was possible, and the AICAflex stuff was simply a skill issue.

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My next thought was, what if the BGA SDRAM itself was somehow incompatible with the AICA? After all, its timings didn't match the original SDRAM exactly.

I certainly didn't want to stare at the parallel address/data bus with a logic analyzer or scope. The simplest way to test the BGA SDRAM on a stock mobo would be a castellated adapter board, so I designed one.

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The BGA SDRAM's pinout forced me to place it on the underside of the adapter. Otherwise, every single trace would've had to route across to the opposite side of the board.

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Unfortunately, JLC can't do tiny castellations, so this first revision was totally unusable.

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After some minor tweaks to the board, JLC was able to fabricate the castellations properly.
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And it worked!!! :awesome:

With BGA audio SDRAM working on an otherwise unmodified Dreamcast, it was time to revisit AICAflex and solve its issues.

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At the time, I was sure that the 33-ohm series resistors on the control lines were the culprit and the reason AICAflex hadn't been working. But, I totally missed a key difference between the rigid RAM adapter and AICAflex:

...one was a flex! :XD:

Somehow, I still hadn't realized just how important board planarity is for soldering BGAs onto FPCs reliably.

Anyway, after some brainstorming, I figured out how to cram two 0201-size resistor arrays beneath the BGA SDRAM:

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However, this necessitated cutouts in the stiffener. Say hello to revision 5:

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GoldPhoenix made quick work of these as well.

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However, I noticed that the cutouts in the PI stiffener (which is really just thick Kapton) caused little dimples on the top of the FPC. If you zoom in on the RAM footprint you'll see what I mean:

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I proceeded with assembly and installation anyway. This time the install went very smoothly, but the audio RAM STILL did not work!

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At this point I was immensely frustrated and was about to abandon AICAflex forever. Wesk and I joked about "AICArigid", basically a big, ugly rigid breakout board that users would have to handwire to the motherboard. I'm sure y'all can understand why abandoning the sexy AICAflex design after pouring so much work into it was a hard pill to swallow.

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Before pivoting to AICArigid, I asked my boss at work for advice. He had decades of experience in the mobile phone industry and was well versed in flex and rigid-flex design.

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He told me that PI stiffener was basically useless for ensuring flex flatness, and that FR4 would be way more reliable than PI. Based on his advice, I decided to try 0.5mm FR4 stiffener, in case the issue really was rigidity/planarity of the BGA section of the flex.

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When the (rev6?) flexes arrived I immediately learned a limitation of FR4 stiffener, which is that it can only be drilled or milled, not laser cut. So my rounded rectangular stiffener cutouts had been converted into round drill hits! It's also very brittle and chips/cracks easily.

The dimples were still present, but they were a lot less severe.

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The FR4 stiffener made a huge difference during assembly!

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Of course, Murphy's Law meant that I accidentally soldered one of the resistor arrays rotated 90° and so I had to do some surgery after installing the flex onto the DC mobo. :|

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It's difficult to communicate through pics just how tiny the 0302 (0806 metric) resistor arrays are. Each one is only 0.8 x 0.6 mm!

Everything hooked up and ready to test. The date was June 28, 2022: 16 months after I designed the very first AICAflex.

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AND IT WORKED!!!!!!!

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After nearly a year and a half of work (half of that being fully focused on AICAflex) I finally had it fully working. Such an immense relief.

And as I've alluded to throughout these posts, the issue ended up being quite simple: solderability of the BGA SDRAM.
  • The fact is that BGAs need a super duper flat, planar surface to be soldered to, and flexes are, well, flexible.
  • If the flex is twisted, warped, or bendy, the BGA will never solder properly.
  • Thin PI stiffener will not guarantee a flat enough FPC for a BGA.
  • FR4 stiffener, while cheap, has to be quite thick to produce a flat planar surface
The path was clear: put stainless steel stiffener under every BGA, on every flex. But since the current flexes did work, I decided to prove out the gdemuFlex + AICAflex combo ASAP!!!

Prepping the mobo for a fresh gdemuFlex install:

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It's ALIVE!

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And the coup de grâce:

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This preliminary trim proves that the Dreamcast can be made just 94mm wide. This means it can fit entirely behind a 5.6" 640x480 LCD. It would also fit in a 5" 640x480 portable (something like Gman's first modern PS2 portable) with fairly minimal bezels!

2023
After getting the preliminary trim working, I ordered a few more revs of the flexes from PCBWay, with stainless steel stiffener and other minor optimizations like improved GND planes. But I have not tested them and probably never will because the alignment still leaves a lot to be desired.

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2024 - 2025
Last year, I took fresh 2400DPI scans of the VA1 Dreamcast motherboard, and brought AICAflex into KiCAD to fix the alignment issues.

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gdemuFlex will get the same treatment this year. This is a lot of work, especially with a board imported from EAGLE, but it's important for the Dreamcast flexes to match my other open source flexes in terms of alignment and quality.

In early 2023, after getting AICAflex and gdemuFlex working in tandem, I started writing The Advanced Dreamcast Trimming Guide.

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Honestly, I wasn't ready for such a massive undertaking at the time, but after creating The Definitive Wii U Trimming Guide, I now have a much better handle on how to approach the DC guide.

I envisioned two trims, Daito and Shoto, which are two different lengths of Japanese swords and a reference to the Dreamcast's codename, Katana.

Daito trim: 128 x 94 mm
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Shoto trim: 115 x 94 mm
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Although I originally thought the Shoto trim would require DVEflex, the RetroGEM is probably a better option these days. It's one fewer flex to test and release, and RetroGEM can drive a portable's LCD directly. So, DVEflex will probably be abandoned forever, unless I magically discover a month of free time to revisit it.

Some musings about the trims and trim guide:
  • These DC trims and the flexes make the LOLWUT trim look like child's play.
  • Even with the flexes, the trims still require a lot of fine-pitch trace soldering, for stuff as basic as booting and controller input!
  • Unlike the N64, Wii, PS2, or Wii U where zero or a couple relocations result in a working system, users will need to flash and solder a BGA BIOS, successfully install two ~$120 flex PCBs, modify a GDEMU, and do all of that with no issues for the trim to even load the BIOS.
  • In other words, I'm honestly not sure how replicable all this is. And that will put a damper on my enthusiasm to create a detailed trim guide.
  • I'm also generally unsure how to approach stuff like magwire relocations in guide form. Maybe the only way is a step-by-step guide with photos of each step for each flex.
  • Because of all this stuff, I don't have a timeline for when the trim will be fully proven out, or when a guide will be released.
But when I do revisit Dreamcast trimming, I will post my updates in this thread. The Dreamcast will be fully pwn'd, no matter what!!!

And finally, a huge thank you to @Wesk for putting up with me throughout this endeavor, and offering tons of moral support along the way. <3
 
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This thread is such a great wait to start the new year!
 
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Fly_5

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IMPRESSIVE !! it seems to me brutal your work ,I as already commented you I have cut the dreamcast in the version of the guide puplicada previously ,but seeing your work I would like to know if you could sell me the flex to be able to make that cut of plate and to reform totally the design of my case, would be possible the sale of the AICA flex ? again thank you very much for your advances is impressive .thanks
 

Stitches

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The amount of Silver Eagles you must have spent on this makes my pockets hurt
 

Legend

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Great work man!

The dedication, determination, and perseverance in this project is truly inspiring!
 
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